Palestine – Jordan River, where Jesus got baptized, maybe.

A big crowd was gathered at the small, brown muddy river. It’s supposed to be the place, where Jesus got baptized in the Jordan river. These groups of believers obviously want follow their religion idol by get also blessed in that dirty water.

There’s a singing, praying and even screaming all over the crowd. A few standing in the water, all in white clothes, and holding the believers. Some seemed to hesitate, but loud prayers demanding to the supposing daemons to leave. Then, in a quick move, the priest dived the believer backwards into the river. A guy with a horn blows a deep tone to announce the new baptized, while the crowd was cheering and the singing is swelling in excitement.

The Jordan river is the border to the state of Jordan too. At the other side there’s also a small access to the river. The wooden platform is smaller and much less crowded. The few tourists from Jordan side was watching and filming the event. In between, there was a lonely guy, a bit off the crowd dipping himself into the river. When he reappeared he looked around, seemed to be almost a bit lost.

Palestine – Ramallah with Arafat Mausoleum

Palestine. Of course i wanted have at least a glimpse over the walls. To get an own picture of their life and get an idea of the region, its history and its inhabitants.

It was the easiest way to book a tour from Jerusalem. Fortunately the tour guide was a Palestinian who joined the tour bus after the border. He arrived late at the meeting point and gave us already a first idea about the life here. Despite he startet his ride of around 50km to Ramallah two hours earlier, he got stocked at a check-point, where they blocked the road for unknown reasons. We, the tourists, had to wait on a small coffee shop. It gave me the chance to go around the streets to collect first impressions of Ramallah.

Market places are always nice to get in touch with the locals. That was also the first stop in Ramallah. I was surprised about the openness of the people and how friendly they were. They gave me a wink, showed me their display or just smiled friendly. The same in the streets, where sellers were keen to explain what goods, spices or beverages they sell. Most attention caught the guy who sold iced tea in a very effective way.

Once in Ramallah, we also had a short visit to the Arafat Mausoleum. Although Yasser Arafat, the first president of the Palestinian National Authority, wanted to be buried near the Al-Aqsa mosque in Jerusalem, the Israeli government didn’t allow it. To his honor , the nobel peace prize holder at least got his mausoleum in Ramallah with lots of symbolics.

Israel – Jerusalem Ramparts Walk

It was a secret tip i read about: walk on the walls of Old City Jerusalem.

And indeed, it was a good advice.

Just behind the Jaffa Gate i got the tickets for the ramparts entrance, and some spicy breads to go. The city guide with his small electro car had no job for me, but had a small talk while he waited for other tourists.

Once up the wall, one get a very different view of Jerusalem, on both side of the wall. But at this point i let my images give you an impression of it.

Israel – Holy Places In Jerusalem (2/2)

There was much more to see in this holy city. Most obvious the Dome of the Rock on top of the temple plateau.

The area is bigger than it seemed from below. Tina, the tour guide, lead us over a wooden ramp along the western wall to the plateau near Al-Aqsa mosque. From there the view opened to the famous Dome of the Rock.

Around the plateau are many trees and park like areas where family gathering for a picnic and kids playing happily. But in the middle of all stands raised in the middle the Dome of the Rock with shiny, golden Dome.

To my surprise a group of orthodox Jews appeared on the spot. Actually it’s not allowed to Jews to come near to the holy of holies before the „new temple“ is erected. Tina explains us, it’s allowed to walk along the top of the wall of the plateau, but not getting to close to the centre. These groups are always escorted from a bunch of Israeli police for protection, but also from muslim watchmen, who not allow them to get to close on their holy buildings.

The last stop was on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. That place where Jesus supposed to be crucified, buried and resurrected from the tomb. Not less than six different Christian churches claiming the right to control that spot. The Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic, Coptic, Syriac and Ethiopian Orthodox. Over the centuries they fight about the right to be holier than other ones, until it came to an agreement in 1757, so called Status Quo, which says, there can be changed or removed only with the agreement of all the other five churches.

This leads to very disturbing stories, as the so-called immovable ladder. A simple, wooden ladder at one of the windows on the Armenian sector, which is at same spot since 1728 and can’t be removed because of the Status Quo.

Once inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, there are many rooms, halls and passages between the different sections and churches inside. Tania, our guide, explained a lot of the history, legends and rituals of each sector. But i can’t stop wondering and observing the lot of pilgrims coming from all over the world, kneeling in front of a certain rock, touching a stone board in prayers or kissing an image of a saint.

Israel – Holy Places In Jerusalem (1/2)

Jerusalem isn’t that huge, but full of spots, which considered to be holy to religions as Jews, Christians and Moslems, and if you want so, also the many markets, which could be considered as places to worship the capitalism 😉

To visit most places and get more informations i joined a tour group for the day.. Tour guide Tania lead the group to the many interesting places. Starting in the Armenian quarter, stopping by at ancient Roman columns, we arrived one of the highlights on this tour. The Western Wall, also known as Wailing Wall!

The Jews coming here to pray, because it’s the closest spot to the former most holy place within the ancient temple. It’s not only a place to pray, but also to study and teach. A rabbi appears with a big group of young believers. A film team is following them. Seemed to be quite a famous guy.

Left to the open square, the wall continued behind a big gate into great halls, or tunnels respectively. More prayers inside there. To my surprise, there’s also a big library with books and texts to study.

On the top of the temple plateau lies not only the famous Dome of the Rock, but als the third important mosque of the islam, the Al-Aqsa mosque. There’s no way to get in for non-believers, but at least i got look on it and the square in front of.

Around the temple plateau are narrow streets with markets. Between all the tourists and local shoppers a procession of pilgrims carry a wooden cross along the Via Dolorosa.

I come trough one of the city gates past playing children. Outside are big cemeteries, jewish and muslim ones. Between them lies the Garden of Gethsename with its old olive trees. Just behind it the ascent of Mount of Olives starts. From the top is a stunning view back to the old city, the city wall and the temple plateau with the Dome of the Rock. But more about it tomorrow.

Israel – A Random Day In Jerusalem

Arriving on a new town i like to roam around randomly, drinking coffee in the streets, visiting a market place or hanging around a square and listen to the street musician. Just to get the vibes of the new place. Jerusalem was no exception in that.

The people were busy. Most of them. A few took their time to listen to the street music. Some homeless people were on the streets also, hoping for a Shekel or two, while a soldiers taking a cigarette break. Lots of security units on the squares anyway, but no ones seems to feel threatened or scared. In the opposite, all pretty relaxed and enjoying life. Even when a small demonstration passes by, chanting incomprehensible sayings and waving Ethiopian flags. All peacefully.

Without planning i ended up in the Old Town Jerusalem. Eventually i stood in front of the Western wall with the view of praying Jews and the Dome of Rock. Having already a glimpse on the main attractions of the city, i decided it’s enough for today and headed back to New Jerusalem on search of a tasty falafel meal.

Israel – Shushan Purim Jerusalem 2023

It’s just happened i was in Jerusalem while the celebration of the Jewish holidays of Shushan Purim.

Already in the outskirts of Jerusalem i’ve seen people with masquerades, funny vehicles and music instruments . I’m told to go to the centre where in the pedestrian zones some street parties going on. Although the holidays are more than only the party and dancing, that’s a most awaited part of it. For more information about the origin of Purim read here!

I was wandering trough the crowd, dancing to music, watching the performances and just enjoy happy people around me …and took a lot of pictures from happy people….

Israel – Nazareth And The Basilica Of Annunciation

When in Nazareth, one can’t miss a visit in the Basilica of the Annunciation.

Entering that huge church, a big hall surrounded a deepened grotto. To my surprise not many people are in there right now. Just a few believers who taking pictures and send short prayers towards that holy place. Some murmurs coming from a dark corner. Praying believers gathered in a side chapel. Over my head i noticed a big round opening. Just then i realized there’s a second floor.

On the upper level of the church are more groups. Some of them taking group photos, while others just went silence in prayers. I was hoping to hear the huge organ with its tall pipes, it stayed silent too. On the other end of the church was to admire a big window with colorful glasses, showing saints and stories from the bible.

Out in the streets again it was time to find a place for overnight. Small alleys lead me trough a market area with all small shops closed down. What’s happened here, i ask later a local guy. The capitalism is destroying the market here, he said. All are going to the big shopping malls nowadays. Even here in Nazareth. The small shops can’t barely survive, if at all.

The hostel i found is a gem. In old walls are rooms for guests, but the best is the lovely courtyard with lounge. Another traveler was playing a drum when i sat down for a short rest. We shared some experiences and talked about further travel plans. But soon we also got in more philosophical topics. I’m not saying we found out the meaning of life. But at least we agreed, that meeting new, open minded people, sharing and learning from each other and having time for yourself to reflect, is was making us humans.

Israel – The Nazareth Village

An open-air museum shows the life at time of Jesus.

Tel Aviv – Beachlife

Talking about beaches i’d rather prefer a lonely spot under a palm tree, where i could read and enjoy a sea breeze.

The city beaches of Tel Aviv are certainly different. That means not less interesting. In the opposite, it’s not even mainly a beach to sunbathe and for swimming. The latter is officially forbidden on many stretches anyway. But it’s the place to meet people, going for a run or any other sporty activity, including playing ball sports with friends.

On a Shabbat, the Judaism day of rest, commonly known as Saturday, the public transport aren’t working and most shops, bars and restaurants are closed as well. The beaches, on the other hand, are always open. So they become the meeting points. People come with friends or family to picnic, roam in the park, listen to street musician or gathering for whatever their interest is.

A group placed a huge tripod on a place, attached ropes and rings on it and started doing acrobatic performances for the spectators.

A bit further i heard drums and followed the beat sound. At least a half dozen men practicing Capoeira, the Afro-Brazilian martial art, where the participants rather dance than really fight. It looks spectacular anyway.

More peaceful sounds from a saxophonist, who’s sending the descending sun his last greetings.

It doesn’t mean the day comes to an end quickly now, but while in some places another party starts, i join a group of sunset watchers on a quite corner and look back on another beautiful day in Tel Aviv.