The Usambara mountains offers stunning views from their cliffs. Definitely a must for a hike or two. But also the small villages along the edges are worth a visit. Here some photo impressions…
Something different after those weeks at the coast. A nice, cool place with fresh air and green, lush forests. A quite, peaceful spot with great view over landscape. The Irente Farm just out of Lushoto has the perfect reputation for that. After a friendly welcome, i parked my Land Rover at the grassy campsite, took a fresh breath and got already a taste of the famous dishes with garden fresh vegetables. Back to my car, it was surrounded by big group of teenagers, playing and screaming. Oh Lord, why have these school class from Germany to be here on this week? They visited a partner school here for a project. However, it turned out pretty fun when they started with drum lessons and dance schooling. If i needed some breaks, i headed for a walk and chased bugs or chameleons with my Nikon.
Despite the sleepless night, caused by noisy neighbors, i wanted use the soft morning light for photos in Old Town Bagamoyo. Along the empty streets are old colonial houses, some were more important than others, but all witnessed the history of the town. I didn’t came very far as a young guy stopped me photographing. A self called tour guide wanted to sell entry tickets for an historical building. I refused to get inside and went on. He insisted i have to buy those tickets even i make photos of buildings from outside. Since i stay on public road when i make my photos i don’t have to pay any fee for it, i explained him. A older guy joined in, indicated himself as ‚officially‘ representative of Ministry of Tourism, and threaten me with a fine and arresting. In the entire „old town“ it’s forbidden to make photos without a paid permit. He couldn’t tell me where exactely the „old town“ begins or ended, though. Also my questions about private houses, nature things as trees or public buildings like churches or mosques couldn’t he answer. But he keeps following me for quite awhile and bothered me with threats. One of the few bad experiences in Tanzania, which treats me normally with big hospitality. Okay, i tell myself, Bagamoyo doesn’t like me, so i go on. Within an hour i was on the road again…
It was quite late when i arrived my camp in Bagamoyo. I grabbed my Nikon and went to nearby beach. To my surprise it was pretty busy there. Teenager played football or jumped in acrobatic style in the sand, bicycles and tricycles went around, a young, blonde teenager climbed a palm tree and collected coconuts. The main activities were the returning fishermen, who sold their catch right at the beach. Surrounded by a crowd, the men sold the catch of the day in bundles to the best offer. Right at the beach, the fishes were cleaned and carried home for fresh dinner.
It was on my camp at Mikadi Beach when i met those two young women. Talking about the beaches around here, i mentioned a lonely beach with crystal clear water where i was for a photo shooting before. The two friends wanted a photo shooting too. I’m delighted to bring them there and having a day out with lots of fun.
Small group of people with camera equipment were sitting around at my camp at the beach. While talking with the crew, photographer, assistants and models, they mentioned they want have a photo shooting with me too. Why not right now a spontaneous shooting, i replied. I got my Nikon and a flash. In a couple minutes we improvised for a few pictures.
When night falls over Stone Town, the few lights on the narrow streets fight against the dark, giving a new face to the old town. Youngsters racing with their scooters trough empty alleys, street food sold for late visitors and shadows escapes around the next corner. And you never knows from where the strange sounds comes, echoing in the alleys.
The biggest surprise was the openness of the village people. Despite all the tourism on the beach, the village just back of it, seems hardly to see any foreigners. Old people greeting friendly, while kids waving and shouting enthusiastically to me. Some small kids were even so afraid of a strange looking white man they started to cry. But mostly i got a open smile in my camera and laughters after they’ve seen their faces in the screen. If someone would ask me about the most beautiful spots on Zanzibar, i’d response in the smiling faces of the village people.
After i found the beach of Jambiani quite average, i walked trough the village. Ducks crossing my way, cows roaming around, doves hiding in their shelters. The people sitting in front of the houses, waving me very friendly and having a chat. Wood lies behind the houses for their kitchen. Several boreholes on the streets provide the people with fresh water. A very picturesque and peaceful image of a village.
At least one of these famous beaches of Zanzibar i have to explorer. I choose Jambiani at east coast of Zanzibar. Many kite-surfers had the same idea, as a school class and football players too. It became a lively spot, despite the low tide, when i arrived.
rene bauer photography 