Palestine – Bethlehem, Banksy and Jesus

There’s quite a controversy about the birthday of Jesus. While some historian beliefs it was actually in Nazaraeth, where he supposed to spend also his youth, other stays with the place written in the Gospels: Bethlehem.

After entering the city trough heavy guarded check-points, we stopped at one of the best known graffiti by the anonymous artist Banksy.

‚The Flower Thrower‘

The main program lead to the spot where, according to the gospels and the belief of christians, Jesus was born in a little shack. Around this place a big church with several units and chapels were build.

This Church Of The Nativity has different section according to different Christians churches, similar like the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Old Jerusalem. And like there, here too they have this agreement of ‚Staus Quo‘.

Palestine – Jordan River, where Jesus got baptized, maybe.

A big crowd was gathered at the small, brown muddy river. It’s supposed to be the place, where Jesus got baptized in the Jordan river. These groups of believers obviously want follow their religion idol by get also blessed in that dirty water.

There’s a singing, praying and even screaming all over the crowd. A few standing in the water, all in white clothes, and holding the believers. Some seemed to hesitate, but loud prayers demanding to the supposing daemons to leave. Then, in a quick move, the priest dived the believer backwards into the river. A guy with a horn blows a deep tone to announce the new baptized, while the crowd was cheering and the singing is swelling in excitement.

The Jordan river is the border to the state of Jordan too. At the other side there’s also a small access to the river. The wooden platform is smaller and much less crowded. The few tourists from Jordan side was watching and filming the event. In between, there was a lonely guy, a bit off the crowd dipping himself into the river. When he reappeared he looked around, seemed to be almost a bit lost.

Palestine – Jericho, the oldest city ever?

Actually, there’s not really much to see on the excavation site of Jericho. At least it’s not as impressive than other sites in the area. But it claims to be „the oldest city of the world“, as our guide it stated proudly too.

However, the findings and some walls are dated back around 10’000years BCE. This would be as old as the newer founds in Anatolia, like Göbekli Tepe or Karahan Tepe, both i just visited recently too (there is upcoming more blog posts about my Turkey trip soon. Stay tuned!)

Near to the archeological site of Jericho raise also the ‚Mountain of Temptation‘, where according to the bible Jesus get tempted by the devil in his time of fasting.

We hadn’t the time to climb up or even get a ride up in the cable car. That’s the downside of a booked group tour, i have to admit. At least we had a stop for a splendid view on it and a juicy drink in the shade.

Israel – Jerusalem, the Armenian Museum

In the Armenian Quarter of Jerusalem stands a big building which host now the Armenian museum.

These rooms was build originally in the 1850’s as a pilgrim guesthouse, became later a monastery, a seminary and also an orphanage of survivors of the genocide from 1915.

After a five year renovation it just reopened recently as a museum and memorial of the Armenian Genocide in 1915.

Beside many handicrafts and artifacts of the Armenian culture, especially also the famous ceramics and ornaments, it tells the story of the tragic incidents and deaths from the 24. April 1915, which is still denied by the Turkish government.

Israel – Jerusalem Yad Vashem (Holocaust Museum)

To understand Israel, one have to understand the history of its people.

The traumatic peak of the Jewish diaspora was the so-called holocaust in the 1930’s in Europe. The official website of Yad Vashem explains:

„The Holocaust was unprecedented genocide, total and systematic, perpetrated by Nazi Germany and its collaborators, with the aim of annihilating the Jewish people. The primary motivation was the Nazis‘ anti-Semitic racist ideology. Between 1933 and 1941 Nazi Germany pursued a policy that dispossessed the Jews of their rights and their property, followed by the branding and the concentration of the Jewish population. This policy gained broad support in Germany and much of occupied Europe. In 1941, following the invasion of the Soviet Union, the Nazis and their collaborators launched the systematic mass murder of the Jews. By 1945 nearly six million Jews had been murdered. „

Walking through the rooms of museum/memorial, the visitor learn about how the hate against the Jewish people raised. It displays many individual fates and the suffer of an entire folk. Not to forget all the heroes, who fought and helped these people to escape.

It’s a place to remember the loss and keep in mind to fight for a peaceful future. At least i’d like to understand it that way. Unfortunately, i was informed at this very day, that Israel army attacked and destroyed the airport of Aleppo, which is crucial for the help of victims of the recent earthquake in that region. This incident wasn’t confirmed, nor denied, from the Israel officials. But it let me a bitter taste when thinking of the future of this region.

Israel – Holy Places In Jerusalem (2/2)

There was much more to see in this holy city. Most obvious the Dome of the Rock on top of the temple plateau.

The area is bigger than it seemed from below. Tina, the tour guide, lead us over a wooden ramp along the western wall to the plateau near Al-Aqsa mosque. From there the view opened to the famous Dome of the Rock.

Around the plateau are many trees and park like areas where family gathering for a picnic and kids playing happily. But in the middle of all stands raised in the middle the Dome of the Rock with shiny, golden Dome.

To my surprise a group of orthodox Jews appeared on the spot. Actually it’s not allowed to Jews to come near to the holy of holies before the „new temple“ is erected. Tina explains us, it’s allowed to walk along the top of the wall of the plateau, but not getting to close to the centre. These groups are always escorted from a bunch of Israeli police for protection, but also from muslim watchmen, who not allow them to get to close on their holy buildings.

The last stop was on the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. That place where Jesus supposed to be crucified, buried and resurrected from the tomb. Not less than six different Christian churches claiming the right to control that spot. The Roman Catholic, Greek Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic, Coptic, Syriac and Ethiopian Orthodox. Over the centuries they fight about the right to be holier than other ones, until it came to an agreement in 1757, so called Status Quo, which says, there can be changed or removed only with the agreement of all the other five churches.

This leads to very disturbing stories, as the so-called immovable ladder. A simple, wooden ladder at one of the windows on the Armenian sector, which is at same spot since 1728 and can’t be removed because of the Status Quo.

Once inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, there are many rooms, halls and passages between the different sections and churches inside. Tania, our guide, explained a lot of the history, legends and rituals of each sector. But i can’t stop wondering and observing the lot of pilgrims coming from all over the world, kneeling in front of a certain rock, touching a stone board in prayers or kissing an image of a saint.

Israel – Holy Places In Jerusalem (1/2)

Jerusalem isn’t that huge, but full of spots, which considered to be holy to religions as Jews, Christians and Moslems, and if you want so, also the many markets, which could be considered as places to worship the capitalism 😉

To visit most places and get more informations i joined a tour group for the day.. Tour guide Tania lead the group to the many interesting places. Starting in the Armenian quarter, stopping by at ancient Roman columns, we arrived one of the highlights on this tour. The Western Wall, also known as Wailing Wall!

The Jews coming here to pray, because it’s the closest spot to the former most holy place within the ancient temple. It’s not only a place to pray, but also to study and teach. A rabbi appears with a big group of young believers. A film team is following them. Seemed to be quite a famous guy.

Left to the open square, the wall continued behind a big gate into great halls, or tunnels respectively. More prayers inside there. To my surprise, there’s also a big library with books and texts to study.

On the top of the temple plateau lies not only the famous Dome of the Rock, but als the third important mosque of the islam, the Al-Aqsa mosque. There’s no way to get in for non-believers, but at least i got look on it and the square in front of.

Around the temple plateau are narrow streets with markets. Between all the tourists and local shoppers a procession of pilgrims carry a wooden cross along the Via Dolorosa.

I come trough one of the city gates past playing children. Outside are big cemeteries, jewish and muslim ones. Between them lies the Garden of Gethsename with its old olive trees. Just behind it the ascent of Mount of Olives starts. From the top is a stunning view back to the old city, the city wall and the temple plateau with the Dome of the Rock. But more about it tomorrow.

Israel – A Random Day In Jerusalem

Arriving on a new town i like to roam around randomly, drinking coffee in the streets, visiting a market place or hanging around a square and listen to the street musician. Just to get the vibes of the new place. Jerusalem was no exception in that.

The people were busy. Most of them. A few took their time to listen to the street music. Some homeless people were on the streets also, hoping for a Shekel or two, while a soldiers taking a cigarette break. Lots of security units on the squares anyway, but no ones seems to feel threatened or scared. In the opposite, all pretty relaxed and enjoying life. Even when a small demonstration passes by, chanting incomprehensible sayings and waving Ethiopian flags. All peacefully.

Without planning i ended up in the Old Town Jerusalem. Eventually i stood in front of the Western wall with the view of praying Jews and the Dome of Rock. Having already a glimpse on the main attractions of the city, i decided it’s enough for today and headed back to New Jerusalem on search of a tasty falafel meal.

Israel – Shushan Purim Jerusalem 2023

It’s just happened i was in Jerusalem while the celebration of the Jewish holidays of Shushan Purim.

Already in the outskirts of Jerusalem i’ve seen people with masquerades, funny vehicles and music instruments . I’m told to go to the centre where in the pedestrian zones some street parties going on. Although the holidays are more than only the party and dancing, that’s a most awaited part of it. For more information about the origin of Purim read here!

I was wandering trough the crowd, dancing to music, watching the performances and just enjoy happy people around me …and took a lot of pictures from happy people….

Israel – Nazareth And The Basilica Of Annunciation

When in Nazareth, one can’t miss a visit in the Basilica of the Annunciation.

Entering that huge church, a big hall surrounded a deepened grotto. To my surprise not many people are in there right now. Just a few believers who taking pictures and send short prayers towards that holy place. Some murmurs coming from a dark corner. Praying believers gathered in a side chapel. Over my head i noticed a big round opening. Just then i realized there’s a second floor.

On the upper level of the church are more groups. Some of them taking group photos, while others just went silence in prayers. I was hoping to hear the huge organ with its tall pipes, it stayed silent too. On the other end of the church was to admire a big window with colorful glasses, showing saints and stories from the bible.

Out in the streets again it was time to find a place for overnight. Small alleys lead me trough a market area with all small shops closed down. What’s happened here, i ask later a local guy. The capitalism is destroying the market here, he said. All are going to the big shopping malls nowadays. Even here in Nazareth. The small shops can’t barely survive, if at all.

The hostel i found is a gem. In old walls are rooms for guests, but the best is the lovely courtyard with lounge. Another traveler was playing a drum when i sat down for a short rest. We shared some experiences and talked about further travel plans. But soon we also got in more philosophical topics. I’m not saying we found out the meaning of life. But at least we agreed, that meeting new, open minded people, sharing and learning from each other and having time for yourself to reflect, is was making us humans.