Some last impressions from Israel. Enjoying the desert around Mitzpe Ramon. The town is situated on the edge of a cliff and overlooking big dry valley. One of the highlights is a walk along the cliffs and observing the ibex at sunset. With this beautiful and peaceful silence my trip in Israel comes to an end…
Leaving the coast of the Red Sea along the border with Egypt, the road leads back into the Negev desert. More rocky and hilly landscape, with dry valleys and small oasis. A few remote settlements along the way. But there are also groups of cyclists on the road, fighting against the heat and covering big distances. Myself prefers a short hike in the desert, enjoying the few colorful plants growing there. At the end of the day i was ending up in Mitzpe Ramon. More about it on my next blog.
Nothing else better than a good coffee for starting a new day. Even better in beautiful or interesting surrounding.
It’s happened i got an overnight stay just in Tsukim, just near the gate to the art village. And it’s just happened i woke up there on a Friday morning, the day when the art village is open for public, as they told me.
The Artists‘ Colony of Tsukim, also know as Zuqim, lies in the Negev desert, far away from a bigger settlement. A perfect place to follow your inspiration and create artsy stuff, as also more handy ones, like roasting coffee.
And coffee i got in the gallery, where beautiful landscape pictures of winterly Turkey were displayed. Ironically i did travel in Turkey just before and was fleeing the cold, while i enjoy the pictures here in the desert now.
Later i roamed trough the little shops, talked with a few artist and admired their art work. Paintings, pottery, fairy puppets, jewelry and wonderful creatures and things made from natural materials. And this coffee roastery, owned by a nice guy and his father. A good reason to stop by for another espresso.
„There must be a place to access the Dead Sea, isn’t it?“ I asked the nice young lady at the entrance of En Gedi. I had that experience of floating in the highly saturated salty sea twice when i traveled Jordan in 2014 (click here). Since i’m so close to that unique waters, i wanted have at least another short dip on this side of the sea.
„There’s a spa at seaside nearby, but it costs a fortune to get in“ she replied. „Better drive south to En Bokek. There’s a public beach without an entrance fee.“ she advised me. Thankfully i drove along the coast. The sun already was near the horizon when i arrived at that beach. The town provides changing rooms and fresh water shower at the sandy beach. Behind the beach are a few big, modern hotels and even a shopping mall. People enjoying to float on the water or sunbathing in the late afternoon sun.
Quickly i got myself into the water, and once again felt that strange sensation of the strong buoyancy. Literally lying on the water surface and looking over to the reddish mountains of Jordan, it felt like being on another planet, where gravity is different and light shines from an another sun. That thought carried on when i traveled into the night, followed by a cloud shaped like a space ship.
There’s not just one En Gedi, i found out when i approached the area. My quick research earlier learned me about a kibbutz and a nature reserve, an oasis, with the same name. It’s not exactly the same spot, as i expected. The nature reserve lies not inside the kibbutz, as i thought, but a few kilometer up north of it. So be aware of it if you want visit it.
There’s a parking lot and big picnic area with some shops and cafe in front of the entrance. A friendly young lady at the booth explained me about the ways and activities within the UNESCO heritage nature park. I was poorly prepared about this spot and already bit late on the day. I was happy to learn, there are some shorter walks along a creek. So i followed the ‚wet trail‘ upstream. Beautifully along the green bushes inside a deep valley with incredible views over the Dead Sea. On some rocks i found to my surprise a couple rock hyrax glaring to wandering tourists. These cute mammals are seen often in Southern Africa, known also as rock dassies.
Along the way are several small waterfalls. Day visitors use the chance to have a dip in the tiny pools to cool off or just having a rest there. My walk ended on the higher and more famous David waterfalls. A cool rest under the spray of the falls, a couple pictures taken and the joy of the view for a few minutes longer. Too soon i had to walk back, but on a slightly different route to enjoy the view over the Dead Sea bit more.
In the tiny rental car the Judaean Desert felt even more huge. A black bitumen road navigates between stony fields, rocky areas and along deep, dry valleys with some rare, green oasis. I have to admit, i always do enjoy traveling trough lonely deserts. All in a sudden a deep blue surface appeared on the edge of a plateau. I reached the Dead Sea region.
Not far from here i arrived at the foot of a mountain. On top of it is the legendary fortress of Masada.
Built by Herod the Great it has two palaces for himself and fortified city on the plateau of the mountain. Beside the space for the inhabitants it also has huge storage rooms and a clever system of water drains and cisterns. King Herod enjoyed life up here with big, painted halls, terraces overlooking the Dead Sea and even heated baths.
Later the fortified city was occupied by the Jewish on the First Jewish-Roman War. The story tells a sad end of the folks up there. When the Romans besieged the fortress, they even build up a ramp to breach the walls. The people inside the city decided not to go in slavery but rather commit a mass suicide.
Nowadays a cable car brings the tourists on the top. There’s still a long, steep way uphill for the wanderers. I preferred to spend some time up there and wander between the ruins. Some wall paintings are still well preserved, as parts of the Roman bath is too. Even the earthen ramp, which was built to breach the wall, is still good to see.
The view is just stunning. On the back raises the mountains of the desert with its nice rock formations. On the front lies the blue Dead Sea with the Jordan mountains on the other side. It was so beautiful and magic, i spent longer than planned, but regret not one minute of it.
Actually, there’s not really much to see on the excavation site of Jericho. At least it’s not as impressive than other sites in the area. But it claims to be „the oldest city of the world“, as our guide it stated proudly too.
However, the findings and some walls are dated back around 10’000years BCE. This would be as old as the newer founds in Anatolia, like Göbekli Tepe or Karahan Tepe, both i just visited recently too (there is upcoming more blog posts about my Turkey trip soon. Stay tuned!)
Near to the archeological site of Jericho raise also the ‚Mountain of Temptation‘, where according to the bible Jesus get tempted by the devil in his time of fasting.
We hadn’t the time to climb up or even get a ride up in the cable car. That’s the downside of a booked group tour, i have to admit. At least we had a stop for a splendid view on it and a juicy drink in the shade.
Heiss, trocken und staubig, das ist Loyangalani am Turkanasee. Ein Bad im See spendet zwar etwas Erfrischung, doch das Wüstenklima erfasst einem wieder sobald man am Ufer steht. Immerhin gibt es Quellen, in deren Nähe der Ort gegründet wurde. Auch unser Camp liegt an einer dieser kleinen Quellen. Das Wasser reicht aus um einige Schatten spendende Palmen hervorzubringen. Es lockt aber auch immer mehr Leute heran, die der kargen Landschaft nichts mehr abtrotzen können und in unsäglicher Armut leben. So wächst Loyangalani und droht die wenigen Ressourcen mit zu vielen Menschen teilen zu müssen.
Trotz Mittagshitze schlendern Michael und ich durch die staubigen Strassen. Hie und da kommen wir in ein Gespräch, machen Fotos und versuchen mehr über das Leben hier zu erfahren. Eine italienische Nonne erzählt uns über das ärmliche Leben hier, über die vielen Kinder, die trotz örtlicher Schule kaum Zukunftsperspektiven haben. So vertrauen sie alle, dass eine göttliche Fügung die ersehnte Wendung in diese Wüstengegend bringt. Bis diese aber kommt sinnieren Michael und ich über die sinnvolle Nutzung der Quellen. Unsere europäische Denkweise stört sich an Verschwendung des Wassers, das oft ineffizient genutzt wird und irgendwo über die Strasse läuft, um dort im sandigen Graben zu versickern.
Touristen gibt es in dieser abgelegenen Region weniger. Einige verirren sich trotzdem dahin. Nicht zuletzt wegen Wolfgang, der hier vor etwa 40 Jahren als erster ein Resort aufgebaut hat. Aus dem Geschäft hat er sich zurückgezogen, hiess es. Eine Legende ist er geblieben. Michael, mein Reisebegleiter, und ich fanden Wolfgang bei einem Bier in einer Bar. Mit einer Kippe in der Hand starrt er in den Fernseher über der Bar. Das Fussballspiel interessiert ihn offensichtlich mehr als wir Neuankömmlinge. Mein redseliger Reisegefährte löchert ihn mit Fragen und erzählt ihm von seinem Leben und Plänen als Missionar in Kenia. Wolfgang zeichnet ein müdes Lächeln auf sein eingefallenes, tief gefurchtes Gesicht. Ihn interessiert es nicht, denke ich für mich. Er sieht aus wie ein Mensch der mit dem Leben abgeschlossen hat. Die Geschichten anderer berühren ihn nicht mehr, und die eigene Geschichte ist abgelebt. Sein hagerer Körper fragt nur noch nach etwas Maisbrei mit Fleischstückchen, einem Bier und Zigaretten. Der müde Geist gibt sich mit dem Fernsehprogramm in der Bar zufrieden, und vielleicht flackern einige erinnerungswürdige Momente vor seinem inneren Auge auf.
Being a tour guide for my parents was a completely new thing. It brought me a whole bunch of experiences and challenges too. At the start i did a selfie with my crappy cellphone at train station for remembering reason and posted it on Instagram. I repeated it at airport. Somehow i liked it and went on picturing my parents in this selfie style throughout our trip in Namibia. It became a collection of selfies of our journey.
A nationalpark is not a zoo. The opportunity to see wildlife in their natural habitat comes not with a guarantee. Only time and luck (and some knowledge about habits of animals) let you observe most of these fascinating creatures. Because we planned two days in the park only, i kept the expectations low. But it wasn’t necessary. Already at the first waterhole many animals gathered for drinking. Later we’ve seen not only a lion in distance but twice a pack of lions laying around lazy or watching us just next to the road in the bush. My parents were amazed. Next to giraffes, different kind of antelopes, birds, jackals, warthogs, elephant bulls and huge herds of zebras, we spot twice the very rare black rhinos. To see them so close amazed now me. After the overpriced and rather disappointing group tour in Serengeti/Ngorogoro Parks few weeks earlier, Etosha Park was a short but incredible experience again.
rene bauer photography 