Overlander Car Issues With ‚Tina Tortuga‘

A bright lamp enlightened all the issues of my newly named landrover Tortuga, #tinatortuga. I was standing under the lifted car with a mechanic to check the state of it. There’s an oil leaking and some unsolved problems with the prop shaft, what brought me to this mechanic. The source of leaking was founded quickly, but as I requested we went trough the entire vehicle, more or less.

Beside the leaking from transfer box there’s also leaking from oil filter housing, Even the tank is leaking and had to be repaired as some bushes and hoses has to be fixed and replaced too. Despite there isn’t much electronics in that vehicle it turned out difficult to find the bug which is blowing my indicators and hazard lights continually. In short, quite an overhaul.

I need a stay for the time of repairs. The estimated period of four to five days was doubled, as the costs of repairs was too, due some difficulties, mainly with the transfer box. All bearings of that part must be replaced. I didn’t care so much about the time, since there was heavy rain predicted. All i needed was a quit and dry spot to be.

Luckily I found a beautiful place outside town of Mbombela/Nelspruit. Friendly hosts welcomed me and showed me around the self catering house where I got a nice room with a glass door towards pool side and amazing view to the valley. That’s the place to stay for a few quit days. Reading, writing journal and sorting photos next to the pool. Having a beer or a glass of red wine in the evenings, after cooking myself a tasty meal, and chatting with the owners, while waiting my car got fixed. That’s all part of traveling too and must try to use the time as good as possible. 

Just the day before I could pick up ‚Tina Tortuga‘, another Landrover Defender arrived at the Lodge. Same model as mine and even the same color. A couple got off the car and settled in the accommodation. It turned out they are from Brazil and already four years on the road. So there was lots to chat about and share travel stories and experiences. And of course, as a Landy driver there’s also about workshop stories. That lovely couple gave me a lift to the landy-workshop and get a oil/filter change for their ‚Pandora‘ too. Who wants to see more of the journey from Eduardo and Rafaela visit their website: www.pandoraontheroad.com.br

Ten lazy days later I checked out of ‚Highland Creeks‘ and got ‚Tina Tortuga‘ back from the workshop. Since it was late of the day and weather forecast predicted another storm with heavy rain, I decided to stay another night at an apartment on my way out of town. Another jewel in the mountains as I found out. After all, the day ended beautifully with a glass of wine and a bath in a tube with a view. 

Back In South Africa

Many times I hear or read people saying, it feels like coming home, when they turn back to a favorite holiday destination of them. In my ears, it sounded often pathetic and unreal. But arriving at farm of my beloved friends, meeting all family members and seeing my Land Rover again comes this feeling very close. It’s not exaggerating to call my Land Rover my home, since it’s not only my travel car, but also my house on wheels for many months every year. 

This time was a long waiting to get back, due the pandemic situation. Finally I landed in Johannesburg, had to spend a night in the city, but caught the first bus in the morning to the province of Limpopo. There was a warmly welcome by my friends and family, and much to talk about. Only one person was really missed, the head of family passed away, caught by that spreading disease and leaves a big void. The good memories remains and despite the difficulties, there shouldn’t be untried to collect more. In such a warmhearted family I have no doubt of it.

There it stands. My Land Rover is parked under a roof just next to the farmhouse. One of my friends was so friendly to replace the broken starter battery, and so it starts with the first try. A new journey can begin, actually. But first I want give my travel car a proper service and maintenance. 

And despite my refuse over all these years, i consider again to give my Land Rover finally a name. I carry already a name for it with me since many years actually. 

What are you guys thinking? Does it deserve a name?

Any recommendations?

Please give me your opinions in the comments below 🙂 

Should my Land Rover get a name? Yes or No? Recommendations in the comments please 😉

Begegnungen in Diani Beach

Die Friseursalons in Afrika haben immer Hochbetrieb. Das stark gekrauste Haar der Afrikaner wollen viele Frauen nicht so natürlich hinnehmen. So wird geflochten, geglättet oder Haarverlängerungen eingewoben. Für die kunstvollen Frisuren, an denen manchmal drei bis vier Frauen gleichzeitig arbeiten, müssen nicht selten vier Stunden oder mehr veranschlagt werden. Mit Geduld sitzen die Kundinnen da, tratschen mit den Friseurinnen oder melden ihren Freundinnen bereits stolz die neue Frisur an.

Fast schon als Ausnahme gilt Delia, die ich beim Billiard spielen traf. Ihre Kurzhaarfrisur verkörpert ihre Persönlichkeit; stark, natürlich, eigenwillig, witzig und klug. Seit langer Zeit habe ich mich nicht mehr so gut unterhalten. Ernste Gespräche wechselten sich mit lustigen Bemerkungen und einem guten Schuss Ironie ab. Auf das Thema Fotografie kommend, wollte Delia mich unbedingt einem Bekannten vorstellen, der hier im Ort als Fotograf herumging und Mädchen angeblich als Models für ein belgisches Modeunternehmen anwirbt.

Als Freddy, der belgische „Fotograf“, mir gegenüber sitzt, sprudeln die Worte nur so aus ihm raus. Ganz Klischee erzählt mir der grauhaarige Mann um die Mitte/Ende 60 von seinem Leben als erfolgreicher Kriminal-Anwalt und zeigt mir Bilder von seinem Haus, seinem Auto, seiner Ex-Frau. Ob er nicht noch ein Boot hätte, frage ich ihn. Er scheint die Ironie nicht zu verstehen und verneint die Frage gewissenhaft. Sein Redefluss geht zu den jungen, schwarzen Frauen über. Nun erfahre ich, dass er als regelmässiger Tourist in dieser Gegend, nebenbei die Frauen anwirbt, um Fotos von ihnen als Vorauswahl nach Europa zu senden. Mit ein wenig Glück werden diese Frauen dann als Models verpflichtet, um vor Ort einem professionellem Fotografen für Fashion Shootings zu posen. Etwas erstaunt nehme ich wahr, dass er selber nicht einmal eine mittelmässige Schnappschusskamera dabei hat, sondern die angehenden Models einfach mit seinem Tablet ablichtet.

Kurz nach meinen Reisen und Lebensstil befragt, lädt Freddy mich spontan ein, ihn und Delia zum Lobster essen zu begleiten. Er kenne ein fabelhaftes Restaurant direkt am Meer, das man aber wegen dem allabendlichen Ansturm reservieren müsse. Zwar esse ich keine Meeresfrüchte, lasse mich aber zum Fisch essen überreden. Das „exquisite Restaurant“ entpuppt sich als einfache Strandkneipe, wie es sie zu Dutzende hier gibt. Einige zusammengezimmerte Holztische unter einem Strohdach, das auf vier Pfosten steht. Bevor wir aber als einzige Gäste unter das Strohdach treten, muss mir Freddy noch sein Können als Fotograf zeigen und lässt Delia vor seinem Tablet posieren. Die Vorspeise besteht dann auch aus weiteren mittelmässigen Fotos, die er mir auf seinem Tablet serviert. Zum leckeren Fisch fragt er mich weiter über meine Reisen aus, nur um mir seine weitläufigen Gedankenwelt darüber darzulegen. Interessant waren nur die von Witz und Ironie gespickten, kurzen Kommentare von Delia, die sich ansonsten genüsslich ihrem Lobster widmete. Es war schon dunkel als nur noch Fischgerippe und leerer Lobsterpanzer auf den Teller liegen. Freddy verlangt die Rechnung, hob kurz den Zettel näher an seine Augen und schielt zu mir rüber. Er hätte gerade etwas wenig Bargeld dabei, ob ich ihm mit 1000 Schillinge (ca 8€) aushelfen könne, fragt er mich ungeniert. Verdutzt reiche ich ihm der Schein rüber, wohl wissend, dass ich nun mein Essen trotz seiner Einladung selbst bezahlt habe. Noch bevor wir vom Tisch aufstehen glotzt er auf sein Handy und hebt lächelnd den Kopf. „Ich habe heute noch ein Date.“ verkündet er strahlend. „Mit wem?“, will Dalia wissen. „Du kennst sie auch“, antwortet er ihr mit einem Augenzwinkern, „es ist eines der Models, die ich fotografiert habe. Für 150 US$ kommt sie heute Nacht zu mir. Das ist doch ein angemessener Preis, nicht?“ Mit aufkeimendem Übel verlasse ich den Tisch, den Ort, die Küste…

Beach Life, just chilling!

Nach der Zeit in der staubigen Maasai Steppe und dem quirligen Leben vom touristischen Arusha sehne ich mich nach einem ruhigen Strand. Ich fand ihn in der Nähe von Tanga. Ein Camp in der Zwischensaison verspricht Ruhe und Abgeschiedenheit. Mein Landy durfte ich direkt am Strand unter Schatten spendenden Bäume stellen. Strom bekam ich von einem nahen Unterstand und hatte somit meinen Kühlschrank versorgt. Nun folgt nur noch ein kurzes. erfrischendes Bad im Meer und dann in den bequemen Stuhl mit einem Buch in der einen, einem Getränk in der anderen Hand. Relaxing pur.

Das Personal der Lodge, zu dem dieser Camping gehört, lässt mir meine Ruhe. Nur das Wachpersonal hält sich in meiner Nähe auf. Neugierig beäugen sie jeden Schritt und jede Bewegung, die ich mache. Im Schatten sitzend sprechen sie untereinander in ihrer gutturaler Sprache. Englisch sprechen sie nur gebrochen, trotzdem versuche ich einiges aus ihrem Leben zu erfahren. Ob es an der Sprachbarriere liegt oder an ihrer Schüchternheit mag ich nicht richtig zu beurteilen, aber viel mehr als ein freundliches Lachen bringen sie mir nicht entgegen. Daher gehe ich zur Abwechslung an die leere Strandbar und halte einen Schwatz mit der Managerin aus Südafrika, die sich ebenfalls hier aufhält. Sie alle geniessen die ruhige Zeit, bevor wieder mehr Touristen sich in dieses paradiesisches Fleckchen verirren. Auch ich gehe zurück zu meinem ruhigen  Strandstuhl, beobachte die vorbeiziehenden Dau mit ihren dreieckigen Segeln oder Strandkrabben beim Höhlenbau. Dann versinken meine Gedanken wieder in mein Buch und meine nackten Füsse in den Sand.

Sister Therese

A friend wrote me a message, telling me about a German lady, who lives in Africa since decades as a nun and founded several dispensaries. If i’m passing by that area i should visit her, he suggested. And indeed, it seemed i’m pretty close there anyway.

On my way i got stopped by the traffic police. Once more. While the officer check my papers he wanted to know where i’m heading to. I told him the story of the old lady, doing so many good things for local people. I admire to meet her and maybe making some photos of the place she founded, i explained. As the officer has seen my camera he wanted me to do a portrait shot of himself. I did. With a smile on both of us he let me go.

Just ask for ‚Sister Therese‘ when you reach the town, my friend advised me. And indeed, even the people on the street didn’t recognized the name of the dispensary, they reacted promptly on the name of the nun. But Sister Therese doesn’t live here anymore. The new chairman of the small hospital organized a nice chap who’s guiding me to the new founded dispensary of Sister Therese. It was about an hour drive or so. Maurice asked me to stop in a village to introduce me with the chief, who owns a shop. It’s all interesting and so much to learn about, but also time consuming. Finally we reached the dispensary and i met Sister Therese in person. After a brief tour trough the building and nearby garden, she told me her story by a soup and tea. Since she was a young girl she wanted go somewhere far. As a young nun she went to Southern Africa, studied to become a nurse and stayed many years in Zimbabwe. Many stories about trouble and terrible times, in Southern and later in Eastern Africa, but also about never ending hope and times of happiness. Her eyes are always smiling even when she’s telling dark stories. A truly strong woman, which i’d like to spend more time with, but it got late and time to leave for me. Despite the short time with her, it let a deep impression on my way out of the bush.

Rough Road To Kenya

I could take the nice tarred road out of Uganda, but the scenery on the northern slope of Mount Elgon was to tempting. The road became more bumpy and dusty with every mile, but bigger also the people smile. From time to time i had to stop for a photo, or just for the stunning view, or simply to give way to a big truck on narrow roads. Time schedule got lost. Instead of a few hours drive i needed all day to reach the Kenyan border post. The last village before frontier i found a fuel station where the diesel pump worked by hand. Can’t remember when i had such a laughter with tank guys filling up my diesel tank.

The Sipi Falls

From Kampala leads a wide, tarred road to the Kenyan border, but on my way i decided to drive a detour to the Sipi Falls. The camp was settled opposite the falls with stunning view to the scenery. Even a sprinkling rainbow appeared with the setting sun. Unfortunately it’s a typically ran down campsite, as many others in Uganda and in Africa in general. The staff tell me from a owner living far away, not interested to invest in facilities, nor seems the employers really keen on keeping it nice and tidy. they only count on customers coming (and paying) for the scenery up here. Probably i would had stayed longer if the campsite would been better maintained. However, that one beautiful night i enjoyed the place.

The Salt Factory

Ketwa, famous for his salt lake and traditionally production (see my last blog) has also an old salt factory. It was build and operated by a German company, but failed cause of wrong material used. It did simply rusted apart due the salt water. The government has new plans, but nothing happen yet. The manager kindly let me in for photos and showed me around, explained me the history and new plans of this factory.

The Salt Lake

Katwe is a village at northern end of Lake Edward. Along a dusty, bumpy road are some shops and gloomy bars. Most of people living in the houses scattered in the neighborhood or next to the huge lake. At first glimpse just another quite village somewhere in Uganda. But there is something special. Just next to this village, beyond a low crater rim, a small lake appears. At the shore are many ponds in different sizes and colors, mostly dark reddish to almost black. The high quantity of salt makes it worth to collect it. This business grew over generations, and the trade system is still the same. There is no big company who owns the salt, but families taking care for their own plot. A plot usually get inherited to the next generation of the family. Beside the plots, there are also men who walking in the middle of the shallow lake. With iron sticks they break the salty rocks from the ground of the lake and bring it on rafts on land. The salt, crystalline or as rocky plates, get shifted on shore, protected by plastic sheets or covered with dry grass, till they sold and moved by trucks.

Lake Bunyonyi

The road to Lake Bunyonyi was already worthwhile the trip. Hills and craters everywhere you look. Fields around tiny villages, which are scattered in the landscape. Whenever you stop you get company by curious people and begging kids. Then suddenly the lake appears between the hills, lies quietly in the valley. I reached my destination, a peninsula with a campsite. And what a site to camp; in the morning i woke up with the view over the lake. Mist flows over the calm water and crawls up the hills. On the small island in front of me moved slightly the treetops, as some strange power lives there.

Next day i decided to go for an hike on the nearby hills. One of the rare opportunities to go for a hike for free, without any permit needed. But i wasn’t alone. Buggy, the dog from the campsite, followed me. In the villages women sitting on the floor, doing handicrafts. Soon another company joined in. A kid from the village wanted show me the path to the top, and went with me since. From the small farmhouses with beautiful views over the lake the kids waves shyly their hands, wondering where i’m going. I hadn’t an idea myself. My new little friend pointed to another villages behind the hill we just climbed. Yes, let’s go there, i agreed. The people watched me in astonishment, when i arrived with that little local kid and the dog. I found an empty bar and bought my company a soda, which he sipped with a broad smile in his face. Meanwhile Buggy were sitting in front of the door and watched the curious kids on the other side of the street. After the refreshments the way back seems to be easy and fast.