Morgens im Krugerpark

Leise brummend rollt der Landrover über die gute Strasse im Krugerpark gen Süden. Mein Blick heftet sich am heller werdenden Horizont während meine müde Gedanken dahin schweifen. Ob es sich wirklich lohnt morgens um 4 Uhr aufzustehen, um noch vor dem Sonnenaufgang auf Pirsch zu gehen? Der kühle Morgen soll ja die beste Zeit sein, um Raubtiere aktiv zu sehen. Zumindest ist dieser Morgen sehr ruhig und ich bin in den 20 Minuten Fahrt noch keinem anderem Fahrzeug begegnet.

Die Silhouette weckt mich aus meinen Morgengedanken. der charakteristische, sehnige Körper mit langem Schwanz lässt sofort den Geparden erkennen. Im Gegenlicht bewegt er sich erhaben auf eine steinerne Mauer zu und setzt sich darauf. Gelassen beäugt er mich, bevor er sich die Gegend anschaut und dann im hohen Gras verschwindet.

Für heute hat sich das frühe Aufstehen also gelohnt. Und es blieb nicht beim einzigen Highlight. So beobachtete ich später noch ein Rudel Wildhunde, junge, spielende Hyänen und kämpfende Impalas, neben Elefanten, Krokodile und Flusspferde. Ganz unerwartet tauchte dann mittags sogar ein Leopard neben der Strasse auf und rundete so eine Fotopirschfahrt ab.

Zurück in Afrika…

Wie schlafend steht mein Landrover in der Ecke neben dem Farmhaus. Und da möchte er auch gern weiterschlafen. Die ersten Erweckungsversuche misslingen. Dank meinen Freunden auf der Farm ist schnell eine neue Batterie besorgt und dem Reisefahrzeug neues Leben eingehaucht.

Bevor’s aber richtig losgeht werde ich von meinen Freunden für’s Wochenende auf ihre ‚game farm‘ eingeladen. Sie erwarben diese privaten Wildtierpark etwa ein Jahr zuvor und nutzen ihn für ihre grosse Familie und Freunden. So kam ich ihn Genuss mit einigen Familienmitglieder und Freunde einige Tage dort zu verbringen. Mit einem aufmunterndem Lächeln wurde mir sogar der Schlüssel für das Safariauto gereicht. Natürlich konnte ich dem Angebot nicht widerstehen und führte die Gesellschaft durch den Busch auf der Suche nach wilden Tiere…

The Source Of River Nile

I felt the privilege to camp on a grassy site overlooking the River Nile. One site called „The Haven“ became easily a base of tranquility and peace, inviting me to stop by for awhile and do nothing than watch the river flow, the eagles fly and fishermen boats float. It was both, inspiring and meditative. The village nearby couldn’t offer much but laughters and friendly talks when i got to the only little shop around. It was actually just a shack with a weird calendar showing the Ugandian president in truly Rambo style. The ‚roll-eggs‘ they made was delicious, though.

Another camp i found was just above the spot where the Lake Victoria giving birth to the River Nile. A humble monument shows the place where the first European, a certain Mr. John Hanning Speke, spotted the source of the river on 28th July 1862.

At The Banks Of River Nile

At the other side of the Nile a fishing lodge offers boat trips even into South Sudan, i heard. Fishing lodge sounds posh, but when i arrived it was a run-down lodge with basic facilities. Yet still the charm of better times stays in the air. A small group of locals arrived just after me. They came for a little party under friends, brought a living goat in the car trunk and let them to the butcher to slaughter it in the backyard. There were more animals waiting to get eaten up, but having a peacefully live till then. A pig with a bunch of small ones, chicken, more goats. Eagles circling over the river when i walked along the banks and gave the scenery a peaceful touch of freedom.

Murchison Safari Camp

Crossing the Victoria Nile over a bridge with the view of Karuma Falls, i got to the north of Uganda now. I noticed a Camp, just at the northern gate of Murchison Falls Nationalpark, where wildlife seems to cross. At that remote and quite camp is a waterhole. The manager, a young, smart lady, confirmed sometimes elephants, giraffes and more wildlife are to observe here. Despite my patience to watch out for them, the recently rain didn’t gave them the urge to come to the waterhole. Instead big animals i found big spiders, cats, chicken …and then yes, some antelopes came shyly closer. However, some relaxed days in peaceful nature.

Murchison Falls National Park

The tremendous costs to visit the Murchison Falls National Park on my own was doubting me to visit the park. But then i got the offer to take a local car with driver to enter the park cheaper. At least to have a glimpse on the spot where Ernest Hemingway crashed with his plane, survived and got picked up by a tourist boat. To be close where Audrey Hepburn was staying and acting for the „African Queen“. Seeing the ruins of one of the residences of Idi Amin, the cruel dictator of prior days. But yes, also the wildlife, although i kept my expectations low. And there is still the waterfalls, after which the park is named.

Driving trough a huge, dense forest with big families of baboons and monkeys, we heading towards the Victoria Nile. Many colorful kingfisher birds flying off when we passed by. A ferry brings us to the other side with different landscape. A savannah with high dry grass. Buffalos glancing at us, antelopes grazing, hippos chilling in the Nile while socks and other birds stalking in the water. Many animals just given birth and keep their babies closely. On the way back we stopped by the great falls. Tons of water squeezed in a narrow valley, fall over several cliffs with big spray and get quite again on the way to Lake Albert. At end of the day, i have to admit it was worth the visit.

Hide And Seek With Chimps

Just behind the basic campsite the rainforest starts. It’s packed with wildlife, primates and exotic plants. A lush green wall of leaves and wood hides them for an easy sight. And by the way, it’s called rainforest for a reason, so i started the first morning with my guide in pouring rain. After four hours hiking trough dense jungle we gave up. The next day we’ve been bit more lucky. High in the treetop were some chimpanzee to see. To observe and photographing them wasn’t easy due the distances and the bad light conditions. The hike itself was worthwhile anyway, and some other primates as baboons, blue monkeys or black and white colobus monkeys showed up too.

Lake Bunyonyi

The road to Lake Bunyonyi was already worthwhile the trip. Hills and craters everywhere you look. Fields around tiny villages, which are scattered in the landscape. Whenever you stop you get company by curious people and begging kids. Then suddenly the lake appears between the hills, lies quietly in the valley. I reached my destination, a peninsula with a campsite. And what a site to camp; in the morning i woke up with the view over the lake. Mist flows over the calm water and crawls up the hills. On the small island in front of me moved slightly the treetops, as some strange power lives there.

Next day i decided to go for an hike on the nearby hills. One of the rare opportunities to go for a hike for free, without any permit needed. But i wasn’t alone. Buggy, the dog from the campsite, followed me. In the villages women sitting on the floor, doing handicrafts. Soon another company joined in. A kid from the village wanted show me the path to the top, and went with me since. From the small farmhouses with beautiful views over the lake the kids waves shyly their hands, wondering where i’m going. I hadn’t an idea myself. My new little friend pointed to another villages behind the hill we just climbed. Yes, let’s go there, i agreed. The people watched me in astonishment, when i arrived with that little local kid and the dog. I found an empty bar and bought my company a soda, which he sipped with a broad smile in his face. Meanwhile Buggy were sitting in front of the door and watched the curious kids on the other side of the street. After the refreshments the way back seems to be easy and fast.

Tracking The Mountain Gorillas

The volcanos look down to me. In the dusk it felt kinda mystical. I knew there are the mountain gorillas, maybe even awaiting me. Pictures of the movie of King Kong slipped in my mind when i looked up to the steep slope of that mountain. But arriving the headquarter, crowds of tourists watched the performance of dancers, before heading to their gorillas groups, lead by experienced guides.

A strenuous three hours walk trough dense rainforest brought the five of us with our guide and a armed guard to our gorilla group. the Susa group. On the way, Eugene, our guide explained about the environment here. Two porters carry the bags of the other four, while i trust my camera gear no one but myself. And then, the first glimpse of a dark fur in the lush green bush. Th big group of gorillas were scattered around in the bush. But we found the silverback, the oldest and leader in the group. While the animals were moving, we follow the silverback, watching him resting and eating and moving uphill again. For one hour we observed those amazing creatures, before we went downhill, out of the forest, and it seems like out of a day dream again.

Daressalam Fish Market

The fish market is next to the ferry station. Fishermen are busy unload their catch from big boats to the halls. In different sections buyers get smaller or bigger fishes, fish cleaning tables and fish frying facilities. The stench isn’t that smelly as expected and despite the crowd gathering around tables or auctions, the noise isn’t that bad either. The variety of fishes and seafood is big instead. Beside the piles of common snappers and other fishes, craps, squids, eels and different rays are also in the catch. I only feel disturbed to find frozen fish from China in that market too.