Murchison Safari Camp

Crossing the Victoria Nile over a bridge with the view of Karuma Falls, i got to the north of Uganda now. I noticed a Camp, just at the northern gate of Murchison Falls Nationalpark, where wildlife seems to cross. At that remote and quite camp is a waterhole. The manager, a young, smart lady, confirmed sometimes elephants, giraffes and more wildlife are to observe here. Despite my patience to watch out for them, the recently rain didn’t gave them the urge to come to the waterhole. Instead big animals i found big spiders, cats, chicken …and then yes, some antelopes came shyly closer. However, some relaxed days in peaceful nature.

Ziwa – Rhino Sanctuary

Rhinos were distinct in Uganda during the „politically instability“, as the ranger stated it. With funds from overseas the breeding project started. Over years the group of white rhinos increased from two to four to nineteen animals by now. New borns are expected within the next few months. There’s a good chance those unique animals spreading again trough Ugandas landscape and enrich the wildlife. Let’s hope for a durable „politically stability“.

When i arrived the main building, i’m told a ranger get in my Land Rover and shows me the way to the rhinos. But then he changed his mind and asked me to walk there. Of course i liked a hike in the bush. Some other ranger tracked down the rhinos already and directed us by radio to the place, where we found a mother with child. A short while later, four more rhinos came along the way to graze in this area. I was excited to observe those huge, strange looking creatures so near by foot.

Murchison Falls National Park

The tremendous costs to visit the Murchison Falls National Park on my own was doubting me to visit the park. But then i got the offer to take a local car with driver to enter the park cheaper. At least to have a glimpse on the spot where Ernest Hemingway crashed with his plane, survived and got picked up by a tourist boat. To be close where Audrey Hepburn was staying and acting for the „African Queen“. Seeing the ruins of one of the residences of Idi Amin, the cruel dictator of prior days. But yes, also the wildlife, although i kept my expectations low. And there is still the waterfalls, after which the park is named.

Driving trough a huge, dense forest with big families of baboons and monkeys, we heading towards the Victoria Nile. Many colorful kingfisher birds flying off when we passed by. A ferry brings us to the other side with different landscape. A savannah with high dry grass. Buffalos glancing at us, antelopes grazing, hippos chilling in the Nile while socks and other birds stalking in the water. Many animals just given birth and keep their babies closely. On the way back we stopped by the great falls. Tons of water squeezed in a narrow valley, fall over several cliffs with big spray and get quite again on the way to Lake Albert. At end of the day, i have to admit it was worth the visit.

Kasenda Crater Lakes

The landscape around Kasenda is scattered with old craters. Many of them filled with water. Some are hidden behind thick bushes and forests, other ones open with fields to their shore. Hiking and traveling around the area gives new stunning views almost behind every corner.

Lynda At The Beach

Lynda was traveling Tanzania, as she heard about my lifestyle. To my surprise she changed her travel plans, checked out of her five-star-hotel and pitched her tiny tent next to my Land Rover which was south of Daressalam that time. She wanted know more about how i live and travel. However, i brought her to my „hideaway beach“, where we started spontaneously a photo shooting. Not having my full equipment with me, i tried to give my best, as Lynda did too. And she did well, didn’t she? 😀

The Salt Factory

Ketwa, famous for his salt lake and traditionally production (see my last blog) has also an old salt factory. It was build and operated by a German company, but failed cause of wrong material used. It did simply rusted apart due the salt water. The government has new plans, but nothing happen yet. The manager kindly let me in for photos and showed me around, explained me the history and new plans of this factory.

The Salt Lake

Katwe is a village at northern end of Lake Edward. Along a dusty, bumpy road are some shops and gloomy bars. Most of people living in the houses scattered in the neighborhood or next to the huge lake. At first glimpse just another quite village somewhere in Uganda. But there is something special. Just next to this village, beyond a low crater rim, a small lake appears. At the shore are many ponds in different sizes and colors, mostly dark reddish to almost black. The high quantity of salt makes it worth to collect it. This business grew over generations, and the trade system is still the same. There is no big company who owns the salt, but families taking care for their own plot. A plot usually get inherited to the next generation of the family. Beside the plots, there are also men who walking in the middle of the shallow lake. With iron sticks they break the salty rocks from the ground of the lake and bring it on rafts on land. The salt, crystalline or as rocky plates, get shifted on shore, protected by plastic sheets or covered with dry grass, till they sold and moved by trucks.

Hide And Seek With Chimps

Just behind the basic campsite the rainforest starts. It’s packed with wildlife, primates and exotic plants. A lush green wall of leaves and wood hides them for an easy sight. And by the way, it’s called rainforest for a reason, so i started the first morning with my guide in pouring rain. After four hours hiking trough dense jungle we gave up. The next day we’ve been bit more lucky. High in the treetop were some chimpanzee to see. To observe and photographing them wasn’t easy due the distances and the bad light conditions. The hike itself was worthwhile anyway, and some other primates as baboons, blue monkeys or black and white colobus monkeys showed up too.

Lake Bunyonyi

The road to Lake Bunyonyi was already worthwhile the trip. Hills and craters everywhere you look. Fields around tiny villages, which are scattered in the landscape. Whenever you stop you get company by curious people and begging kids. Then suddenly the lake appears between the hills, lies quietly in the valley. I reached my destination, a peninsula with a campsite. And what a site to camp; in the morning i woke up with the view over the lake. Mist flows over the calm water and crawls up the hills. On the small island in front of me moved slightly the treetops, as some strange power lives there.

Next day i decided to go for an hike on the nearby hills. One of the rare opportunities to go for a hike for free, without any permit needed. But i wasn’t alone. Buggy, the dog from the campsite, followed me. In the villages women sitting on the floor, doing handicrafts. Soon another company joined in. A kid from the village wanted show me the path to the top, and went with me since. From the small farmhouses with beautiful views over the lake the kids waves shyly their hands, wondering where i’m going. I hadn’t an idea myself. My new little friend pointed to another villages behind the hill we just climbed. Yes, let’s go there, i agreed. The people watched me in astonishment, when i arrived with that little local kid and the dog. I found an empty bar and bought my company a soda, which he sipped with a broad smile in his face. Meanwhile Buggy were sitting in front of the door and watched the curious kids on the other side of the street. After the refreshments the way back seems to be easy and fast.

Coffee Plantation

On the volcanic soil, coffee grows better and is tastier than where else, they say. So, i visit a coffee plantation near Kisoro to proof it. The friendly people here explain the entire process from the seedlings to green beans to the ripe red ones, from harvest to the inner beans and drying process, from stamping off the skin to roasting over the fire. But best of all, the coffee tasting at the end. For the next weeks i know exactly where my coffee was grown.