Rwanda, also called ‚the land of thousand hills‘, is unique for a road trip. I wished to travel by motorbike from hill to hill, taking those many curves and stopping for stunning views. One of the most beautiful route is along Lake Kivu with its shores, the forest and fields at the coastline. Just a few impressions from that trip…
A dense jungle on both side of the road. A few times a steep slope gives the view free over the green, lush forest. Morning mist crawls up. Despite my early start this morning, i was too late for the chimpanzee tracking. A canopy walk would be an option, but too pricey. I decided to go for a guided hike instead. With only my guide, i walked trough the huge green. He explained about the plants, spotted some smaller animals, as frogs, birds and also mountain monkeys. A bat flew off when we approached its hide too close and some squirrel crossing in high speed our path. Not quite an adventure, but nice hike after cities and long road drives.
Piles of clothes covered with dust lying on benches and at the floor. Dust also on the air, mixed with a rotten smell. Light beams trough the many small holes from grenades pieces to the dark walls full of bullet holes. A team of American specialists working with masks, some with full covered dresses, to clean and preserve the clothes from victims of genocide in the church of Nyamata. Skulls and bones buried in the mass graves nearby, some are displayed for the visitors to show the cruelty of killing innocent people, women and children with primitive weapons, tools or simple sticks. The team of conservators tells me, occasionally they still find human bones in bunches of clothes.
A few kilometer away, a similar tragedy of humanity was happen in the church of Ntamara . The area around the church is preserved like a archeological site. New roof over the building protects from rain, paths leads between buildings and trough green garden, boards content explanations. But the horror of the history is written in the wall. Bullet holes, missing corners where grenades exploded and blood stains on the wall of sunday school where children smashed to death. A big pile of dirty clothes still remains in the kitchen, waiting for further treatment and preserving, while the life in the village goes on…
At entrance gate every passenger has to get off the vehicles for security check. After the car is parked a friendly staff at reception welcomed me with a smile and explained me there is a photography fee of 20 US$ inside the museum building, but outside it’s free to take pictures. Due the low light in the exhibition rooms i decided to focus on the stories, and taking only few shots from outside.
Just behind the welcome hall a room with rows of chairs is prepared to show an introductory movie. A brief overview of the history and some heartbreaking stories of survivors of genocide brings the viewer goosebumps.
In the museum a path leads from display to another, shows photos and and explanations on big boards or short movies on screens. Another room displayed stained clothes, broken skulls and piles of bones from victims of this horrible time.
The head full of thoughts and impressions i took a short walk trough the area. There are mass graves on terraces just beneath the museum. Some dried roses laying on the concrete lid of the graves and names of victims are carved in the stoney board next to it.
In the small, but pretty rose garden a few blossoms are left. And almost as sign for the future, the sun breaks finally trough the clouds and shines on the red flowers.
On my way to Rwanda i wanted have at least a glimpse of Mwanza, the second largest city of Tanzania, and the huge Lake Victoria. The city itself hasn’t lot to offer but the surroundings with round hills and big boulders are nice. Also along the shore of Lake Victoria are beautiful spots to discover. I feel lucky to find a camping at the yacht club of Mwanza with the view of the city opposite that little bay.
The Usambara mountains offers stunning views from their cliffs. Definitely a must for a hike or two. But also the small villages along the edges are worth a visit. Here some photo impressions…
Something different after those weeks at the coast. A nice, cool place with fresh air and green, lush forests. A quite, peaceful spot with great view over landscape. The Irente Farm just out of Lushoto has the perfect reputation for that. After a friendly welcome, i parked my Land Rover at the grassy campsite, took a fresh breath and got already a taste of the famous dishes with garden fresh vegetables. Back to my car, it was surrounded by big group of teenagers, playing and screaming. Oh Lord, why have these school class from Germany to be here on this week? They visited a partner school here for a project. However, it turned out pretty fun when they started with drum lessons and dance schooling. If i needed some breaks, i headed for a walk and chased bugs or chameleons with my Nikon.
Despite the sleepless night, caused by noisy neighbors, i wanted use the soft morning light for photos in Old Town Bagamoyo. Along the empty streets are old colonial houses, some were more important than others, but all witnessed the history of the town. I didn’t came very far as a young guy stopped me photographing. A self called tour guide wanted to sell entry tickets for an historical building. I refused to get inside and went on. He insisted i have to buy those tickets even i make photos of buildings from outside. Since i stay on public road when i make my photos i don’t have to pay any fee for it, i explained him. A older guy joined in, indicated himself as ‚officially‘ representative of Ministry of Tourism, and threaten me with a fine and arresting. In the entire „old town“ it’s forbidden to make photos without a paid permit. He couldn’t tell me where exactely the „old town“ begins or ended, though. Also my questions about private houses, nature things as trees or public buildings like churches or mosques couldn’t he answer. But he keeps following me for quite awhile and bothered me with threats. One of the few bad experiences in Tanzania, which treats me normally with big hospitality. Okay, i tell myself, Bagamoyo doesn’t like me, so i go on. Within an hour i was on the road again…
It was quite late when i arrived my camp in Bagamoyo. I grabbed my Nikon and went to nearby beach. To my surprise it was pretty busy there. Teenager played football or jumped in acrobatic style in the sand, bicycles and tricycles went around, a young, blonde teenager climbed a palm tree and collected coconuts. The main activities were the returning fishermen, who sold their catch right at the beach. Surrounded by a crowd, the men sold the catch of the day in bundles to the best offer. Right at the beach, the fishes were cleaned and carried home for fresh dinner.
It was on my camp at Mikadi Beach when i met those two young women. Talking about the beaches around here, i mentioned a lonely beach with crystal clear water where i was for a photo shooting before. The two friends wanted a photo shooting too. I’m delighted to bring them there and having a day out with lots of fun.
rene bauer photography 