Wildlife Watching With Friends In South Africa

Most people coming to South Africa can’t wait to chase the „Big 5“ and capture them on their camera. The „Big 5“ means Elephant, Buffalo, Rhino, Lion and Leopard. On the downside of tracking them down is the danger to get attacked from them. That’s why one should stay always in the car, not daring to approach them or wandering around unprotected in their habitat.

There are also parks and wildlife farms with none of these dangerous, big animals. But it doesn’t mean it’s less thrilling to visit them. In the opposite, to walk trough the bush, jogging or riding a bicycle, and meet wild antelopes, giraffes or zebras on eye to eye is amazing. Well, bit difficult to look the giraffes on the eyes, but still.

My dear friends was planning to spend a weekend in such a private wildlife farm and invited me to join them. What a feeling to move free around, chasing the giraffes, going for a so called „game drive“ to find more antelopes, such as elands, wildebeest, oryx, blessbock, impalas, steenbok, waterbuck and so on. Off course also zebras, snakes and many kind of birds. 

I felt so blessed to be there, enjoying nature, wildlife and good talks with old and new friends. Stopping midst in the bush and having a sundowner, before return to the base for a nice evening at the braai, the Southafrican barbecue. 

Tanzania, Safari at Lake Natron, in Serengeti and Ndutu Conservation Area

After my safari trip i went to the coast, where in Daressalam my entire photo equipment, laptop and external HDD with all my photos got stolen. It was stolen out of my locked hotel room just an hour after check-in. A common thing in Tanzania, as i found out, that some hotel owners working together with police, who is protecting the thieves when they steal cameras, laptops and cash from their own customers. I actually chose that hotel to sort out and edit my safari photo. Unfortunatly the hotel owner and his son from the „Daisy Comfort House“ (aka „Saadani Tourist Centre“) was quicker by stealing my stuff before i could upload on my cloud. However, i found some pics and vids on my iPhone and cut some simple video together….

Morgens im Krugerpark

Leise brummend rollt der Landrover über die gute Strasse im Krugerpark gen Süden. Mein Blick heftet sich am heller werdenden Horizont während meine müde Gedanken dahin schweifen. Ob es sich wirklich lohnt morgens um 4 Uhr aufzustehen, um noch vor dem Sonnenaufgang auf Pirsch zu gehen? Der kühle Morgen soll ja die beste Zeit sein, um Raubtiere aktiv zu sehen. Zumindest ist dieser Morgen sehr ruhig und ich bin in den 20 Minuten Fahrt noch keinem anderem Fahrzeug begegnet.

Die Silhouette weckt mich aus meinen Morgengedanken. der charakteristische, sehnige Körper mit langem Schwanz lässt sofort den Geparden erkennen. Im Gegenlicht bewegt er sich erhaben auf eine steinerne Mauer zu und setzt sich darauf. Gelassen beäugt er mich, bevor er sich die Gegend anschaut und dann im hohen Gras verschwindet.

Für heute hat sich das frühe Aufstehen also gelohnt. Und es blieb nicht beim einzigen Highlight. So beobachtete ich später noch ein Rudel Wildhunde, junge, spielende Hyänen und kämpfende Impalas, neben Elefanten, Krokodile und Flusspferde. Ganz unerwartet tauchte dann mittags sogar ein Leopard neben der Strasse auf und rundete so eine Fotopirschfahrt ab.

OST-EUROPA-MOTORRADTOUR #25(b): Chernobyl und die Geisterstadt Pripyat

Die Stadt, die am meisten radioaktive Strahlung und Material abbekam war nur knappe 3km vom Reaktor IV entfernt. Von hier aus begannen Feuerwehrleute den Brand nach der Explosion vom Kernreaktor zu löschen zu versuchen. Während der ersten 36 Stunden nach der Explosion wurden die ca 50’000 Einwohner von Pripyat über das Ausmass des Unglücks im Dunkeln gelassen. Erst dann wurde die gesamte Stadt evakuiert. Den Menschen blieb nur zwei Stunden Zeit zum Packen, bevor sie mit Bussen und Lastern in sicherer Entfernung gebracht wurden.

Heute versperrt ein Schlagbaum die Strasse zur Stadt. Ein Kontrollposten überprüfte die Papiere. Dann erst biegen wir in die Strassen der Stadt ein, oder was davon übrig blieb. Büsche und ein dichter Wald eroberten sich ihr Terrain zurück. Ein schmaler Weg wo früher breite Stadtstrassen waren. Durch’s Gehölz erkannte ich Mauern von hohen Wohnhäuser. Vor einem 16 Stockwerke hohen Haus hielten wir. Unser Guide machte uns darauf aufmerksam, dass es offiziell nicht mehr erlaubt wäre in die Häuser einzudringen. Offensichtlich wird dies aber lasch gehandhabt, und wir wurden nur gewarnt aufzupassen. Minuten später keuchten alle 15 Mitglieder der Tourgruppe die verstaubte Treppen hoch. Einige trugen die Staubmasken, die uns angeboten wurden, um nicht radioaktiven Staub einzuatmen. Oben auf dem Dach öffnete sich ein herrliches Panorama über die bewaldete Stadt, bis hin zum neuen Sarkophag des Atomkraftwerkes.

Es war lange nicht das einzige Gebäude, das wir in den folgenden Stunden betraten. Ein Krankenhaus, das stellenweise besonders hohe Werte anzeigte, der Flusshafen mit dem halbversunkenem Hausboot, Ein Musik Konservatorium, dessen demoliertes Klavier einsam vor eingebrochenen Sitzbänken steht oder Turnhallen, an deren Wänden noch vergilbte Fotos von Sportereignisse hängen.

Zu unserem Erstaunen näherte sich ein Fuchs unserer Gruppe. Er war sich bereits an Menschen gewöhnt und bettelte um Fressen. Das ihm zugeworfene Brot mochte er aber nicht besonders. Auch Bären und Wölfe siedeln sich in dieser Gegend an, erfuhren wir. In der nun menschenleeren Region können sie wieder frei leben. Was die Strahlung für Auswirkungen haben, kann man aber noch nicht genau sagen.

Wir hingegen konnten das Gebiet nicht verlassen ohne zuvor durch eine Schleuse mit Dosimeter zu gehen. Diese Apparatur testete bei jedem Einzelnen die aufgenommene Strahlendosis, dessen Höchstwert nicht überschritten werden darf. Natürlich kamen alle einwandfrei durch, und strahlten erst recht beim Anblick eines echten Chernobyl-Feierabendbiers. Prost.

The Source Of River Nile

I felt the privilege to camp on a grassy site overlooking the River Nile. One site called „The Haven“ became easily a base of tranquility and peace, inviting me to stop by for awhile and do nothing than watch the river flow, the eagles fly and fishermen boats float. It was both, inspiring and meditative. The village nearby couldn’t offer much but laughters and friendly talks when i got to the only little shop around. It was actually just a shack with a weird calendar showing the Ugandian president in truly Rambo style. The ‚roll-eggs‘ they made was delicious, though.

Another camp i found was just above the spot where the Lake Victoria giving birth to the River Nile. A humble monument shows the place where the first European, a certain Mr. John Hanning Speke, spotted the source of the river on 28th July 1862.

At The Banks Of River Nile

At the other side of the Nile a fishing lodge offers boat trips even into South Sudan, i heard. Fishing lodge sounds posh, but when i arrived it was a run-down lodge with basic facilities. Yet still the charm of better times stays in the air. A small group of locals arrived just after me. They came for a little party under friends, brought a living goat in the car trunk and let them to the butcher to slaughter it in the backyard. There were more animals waiting to get eaten up, but having a peacefully live till then. A pig with a bunch of small ones, chicken, more goats. Eagles circling over the river when i walked along the banks and gave the scenery a peaceful touch of freedom.

Murchison Safari Camp

Crossing the Victoria Nile over a bridge with the view of Karuma Falls, i got to the north of Uganda now. I noticed a Camp, just at the northern gate of Murchison Falls Nationalpark, where wildlife seems to cross. At that remote and quite camp is a waterhole. The manager, a young, smart lady, confirmed sometimes elephants, giraffes and more wildlife are to observe here. Despite my patience to watch out for them, the recently rain didn’t gave them the urge to come to the waterhole. Instead big animals i found big spiders, cats, chicken …and then yes, some antelopes came shyly closer. However, some relaxed days in peaceful nature.

Ziwa – Rhino Sanctuary

Rhinos were distinct in Uganda during the „politically instability“, as the ranger stated it. With funds from overseas the breeding project started. Over years the group of white rhinos increased from two to four to nineteen animals by now. New borns are expected within the next few months. There’s a good chance those unique animals spreading again trough Ugandas landscape and enrich the wildlife. Let’s hope for a durable „politically stability“.

When i arrived the main building, i’m told a ranger get in my Land Rover and shows me the way to the rhinos. But then he changed his mind and asked me to walk there. Of course i liked a hike in the bush. Some other ranger tracked down the rhinos already and directed us by radio to the place, where we found a mother with child. A short while later, four more rhinos came along the way to graze in this area. I was excited to observe those huge, strange looking creatures so near by foot.

Murchison Falls National Park

The tremendous costs to visit the Murchison Falls National Park on my own was doubting me to visit the park. But then i got the offer to take a local car with driver to enter the park cheaper. At least to have a glimpse on the spot where Ernest Hemingway crashed with his plane, survived and got picked up by a tourist boat. To be close where Audrey Hepburn was staying and acting for the „African Queen“. Seeing the ruins of one of the residences of Idi Amin, the cruel dictator of prior days. But yes, also the wildlife, although i kept my expectations low. And there is still the waterfalls, after which the park is named.

Driving trough a huge, dense forest with big families of baboons and monkeys, we heading towards the Victoria Nile. Many colorful kingfisher birds flying off when we passed by. A ferry brings us to the other side with different landscape. A savannah with high dry grass. Buffalos glancing at us, antelopes grazing, hippos chilling in the Nile while socks and other birds stalking in the water. Many animals just given birth and keep their babies closely. On the way back we stopped by the great falls. Tons of water squeezed in a narrow valley, fall over several cliffs with big spray and get quite again on the way to Lake Albert. At end of the day, i have to admit it was worth the visit.

Hide And Seek With Chimps

Just behind the basic campsite the rainforest starts. It’s packed with wildlife, primates and exotic plants. A lush green wall of leaves and wood hides them for an easy sight. And by the way, it’s called rainforest for a reason, so i started the first morning with my guide in pouring rain. After four hours hiking trough dense jungle we gave up. The next day we’ve been bit more lucky. High in the treetop were some chimpanzee to see. To observe and photographing them wasn’t easy due the distances and the bad light conditions. The hike itself was worthwhile anyway, and some other primates as baboons, blue monkeys or black and white colobus monkeys showed up too.