Tracking The Mountain Gorillas

The volcanos look down to me. In the dusk it felt kinda mystical. I knew there are the mountain gorillas, maybe even awaiting me. Pictures of the movie of King Kong slipped in my mind when i looked up to the steep slope of that mountain. But arriving the headquarter, crowds of tourists watched the performance of dancers, before heading to their gorillas groups, lead by experienced guides.

A strenuous three hours walk trough dense rainforest brought the five of us with our guide and a armed guard to our gorilla group. the Susa group. On the way, Eugene, our guide explained about the environment here. Two porters carry the bags of the other four, while i trust my camera gear no one but myself. And then, the first glimpse of a dark fur in the lush green bush. Th big group of gorillas were scattered around in the bush. But we found the silverback, the oldest and leader in the group. While the animals were moving, we follow the silverback, watching him resting and eating and moving uphill again. For one hour we observed those amazing creatures, before we went downhill, out of the forest, and it seems like out of a day dream again.

Rwanda – Nyungwe Forest

A dense jungle on both side of the road. A few times a steep slope gives the view free over the green, lush forest. Morning mist crawls up. Despite my early start this morning, i was too late for the chimpanzee tracking. A canopy walk would be an option, but too pricey. I decided to go for a guided hike instead. With only my guide, i walked trough the huge green. He explained about the plants, spotted some smaller animals, as frogs, birds and also mountain monkeys. A bat flew off when we approached its hide too close and some squirrel crossing in high speed our path. Not quite an adventure, but nice hike after cities and long road drives.

Turtles On Prison Island

The officially name is Chumbuu island, but everyone knows it as ‚Prison Island‘. Originally slaves were kept on that island, before they’re sold to Arabic destinations. The British forbidden the slavery. Although there was built a prison after that era, it was never used as such. Instead it became a quarantine island in times of yellow fever epidemic. From the buildings are not much to see anymore. A holiday resort with big nice pool opened and the main attractions is the turtle sanctuary with Aldabra Giant Turtles, brought from the Seychelles.

Daressalam Fish Market

The fish market is next to the ferry station. Fishermen are busy unload their catch from big boats to the halls. In different sections buyers get smaller or bigger fishes, fish cleaning tables and fish frying facilities. The stench isn’t that smelly as expected and despite the crowd gathering around tables or auctions, the noise isn’t that bad either. The variety of fishes and seafood is big instead. Beside the piles of common snappers and other fishes, craps, squids, eels and different rays are also in the catch. I only feel disturbed to find frozen fish from China in that market too.

bugs in bush

A couple, both biologists, invited me in the bush to show me more about the research they’re doing there. For once it’s not about big mammals or colorful birds, but about bugs and insects. That’s the chance to learn more about the small creatures around us. My macro lens wasn’t really used often, so i get a chance to gain some skill in photographing tiny creatures, who wanders unexpected fast. Termites in there housings, ants which lives in bush shells, ant lion catching ants who falls in his hole. Incredible dens life in the bush, but one has to look closer…

Tsavo West National Park

Surprised by the atmosphere, i didn’t regret to get up so early to reach the park entrance. Mist floats over a hilly area, birds chirping in the bush and the old volcanos looks promising. I’ve hardly seen any other vehicles in the park, but got on very remote tracks on top of volcano or in deep bushland. Stunning views and the loneliness of the place will keep in my memories. Most impressive was the last hour, actually on my way out of Tsavo West. A bit disappointed not having enough time to spot black rhinos in the rhino sanctuary, i got a clear view on a leopard, but missed to take a photo. Another leopard crossed my way around 20km further. This time i had my camera quickly on hands. Unfortunately, the light was already dimmed and my camera setting didn’t allowed a clear shot. It’s unbelievable that i got sight of a third leopard this day. It was next to the road, roaming slowly next to my Land Rover and allowed me to taking series of pictures of it. Sometimes the luck don’t come once, but trice 🙂

Amboseli National Park

On foot of the highest mountain in Africa is a pretty small national park. Its inhabitants are not very special to someone who traveled other parks in Africa, nor is the vegetation extraordinary in compare of rest of Kenya. But the most unique and breathtaking atmosphere of the park comes not from inside the park. It’s not even inside the country. The majestic Mount Kilimanjaro, which stands on Tanzanian side, rules over the plains of Amboseli park.

Early morning, before sunrise, already a small cloud was over the „Kili“. Soon as i recognized the shape of the mountain, i started to make photos of it. And kept photographing till it disappeared behind thick clouds.

At afternoon, and many wildlife pictures later, the clouds lifted on the mountain and revealed a snowcapped top. The clouds remained till the night fell over the landscape. But next morning, the most beautiful view of Kilimanjaro my eyes have ever caught, let me stunned.

Lake Naivasha Impressions

Despite the many, noisy people who shared the campsite, i enjoyed the long weekend at Lake Naivasha. A few photo impressions:

Hidden Mount Kenya

To circumnavigate Mount Kenya and making pictures from the area was the goal. But i choose the wrong time for it. Or the gods sitting on the mountain didn’t agree to get pictured. It started, like mostly, with the traffic jam in Nairobi. Passing Thika, up north to Nyeri, visiting the memorial park and grave of Robert Baden-Powell, the founder of the boy scout movement.

Just south of Nanyuki my Land Rover crossed the equator line from south to north. The first time since i drove to the southern hemisphere at Gabon in 2010 (http://photoglobo.blogspot.co.ke/2010/03/gabon.html). But also on the northern and eastern side of Mount Kenya it’s hiding from my camera. There are few nice spots though. The eastern side surprised me with lush green forest, coffee plantages and waterfalls.

Back in Nairobi i knew, i have to go again. Next time with more time and less clouds.

times of repairs

On travel, there are times of joy ..and there are times of repairs. Happy to see my Land Rover again, but there was quite few things to repair, to improve and to test again. The clutch must be replaced, as the pedal didn’t work properly too. To replace the word battery seemed to be an easy thing, despite the narrow place under the seat, that’s why i also put some switches and wiring in different places. Wondering why the new board battery won’t charge lead to a problem on the controller of the dual-battery-system. We took it out and put a manually switch between the batteries instead. Now the fridge didn’t work anymore. A few coffees later, and after i took some cash in hands, Gabriel could fix my precious fridge. There was more small things to fix, including a photo lens (fixed quick by Nikon Service in Thika Road Mall), but meanwhile i learned to be patient on traffic jam too. There seems only one rule on Nairobi’s streets: no rules! The start of rain season didn’t make it easier to navigate trough the city, especially at night. On the camp of Jungle Junction soaked the terrain to a muddy flat.Just right to test the couple new Maxxis off-road tyres i got here. 🙂