Seoul: The Myeong-Dong Night Market

When night falls over Seoul, there’s a popular night market to go at the Seoul district of Myeong-Dong.

Modern Seoul: The Dongdaemun Design Plaza

It’s not to deny how close tradition and modernity exist in South Korea, but especially in Seoul. One of the best example is the modern complex of Dongdaemun Design Plaza.

Taiwan: Street Procession

There are still ongoing events for the Chinese New Year. So i bumped into a street procession and followed it for awhile. Gods and Goddesses were carried in ornate sedan chairs or pulled in decorative carriages. The people were in festive mood, played drums and instruments and cheered up the spectator and i think the gods and goddesses too.

Taiwan: Arriving In Tainan

It was late afternoon when i arrived Tainan, in southern Taiwan. But it’s never too late to go out for a stroll in the neighborhood.

Much to see explore, as i found out soon. Around and inside the temples were still lots of lanterns, since the final festivities about Chinese New Year weren’t over yet. In one of the temple two nice, young ladies explaining me, how they interact with their gods and asking questions. It works with throwing two crescent-shaped wooden parts. Depending how the lie, the gods are willing to listen to their questions. Next step is to choose one of the providing sticks, which have numbers what leads to a certain box in a cupboard, where finally is a piece of paper with the answer to your initial question. Maybe.

They also told me about the various gods and goddesses in the different niches of the temple. There’s one who helps to find your soulmate, another one brings luck for women wants get pregnant, or students pray for their exams. On the wall were the proof of success, when it worked. Not so far from catholicism, where various Saints get these tasks done, i thought for myself.

Outside of the temple a sudden strong rain started. It makes the colorful lanterns reflect on the street, giving a new, friendly atmosphere. A small snack on my way home and some juicy strawberries for dessert. The first day in Tainan ended nicely.

Taiwan: Hot Springs And Night Market

Not far from Taipei is a hot spring area in the town of Beitou. It’s easy and fast reachable from Taipei by metro train. In a few steps, a green park invites for a stroll, or to play mahjong, or skating.

I found the public bathing places. There’s an open air one, but i decided to go to the more authentic bathing house. At entrance i got informed, that female and male visitors have separate zones and use to bath naked. I acknowledged and entered, after changing room, a room packed with men sitting in and around two pools. The temperature of the water was between 42-44°C, while the second pool had a thermometer showing constant 45.9°C. The hottest bath i ever had.

Back in Shilin, i went another time to the nearby night market, enjoying some food and the lively atmosphere.

Lantern Festival In Taiwan

The celebrations of Chinese New Year held over quite a time in Taiwan. One of the highlight is the famous Lantern festival in the Pingxi area outside of Taipei.

To get there was already an adventure, since the trains were already fully packed all day long. Once there, the crowd is blocking the ways, even the railways, of the tiny village. People are busy everywhere to buy lanterns and write on them their wishes for the New Year of The Dragon, taking pictures with it and let them fly towards the sky. Beside that, food and entertainment are important too. Food stalls along the way making good business today.

The main event takes place a few hundred meters out of the village. A big stage with dancers, singers and performers entertains the crowd. Big screens displays the show to the unlucky ones bogged in the mass outside of this place, means people like me. And then, in waves, dozens of lanterns get released towards sky, floating over the heads of the spectators, dragged away from the wind.

After the first bunch of released lanterns closing to the horizon, dimming their red lights into the dark night, i slowly make my way back too. There’s still much to see and watch while passing happy people bathing in their hope for a good year coming.

Dusty Streets Of Punta Do Ouro/Mozambique

The heat struck me when i arrived at that small villlage at the beach. After a few rainy and chilly days I was looking for it, but didn’t expected that big change just a few hours after border crossing to Mozambique. 

First thing; to get on the street and get some local currency and buy some water, And a local SIM card. Along the street are colorful fabrics, towels and clothes displayed. Local dealer show their handicrafts, carved wooden figures and small funny cars made of wood. 

Young guys passing me with their roaring quads, raising lots of dust and certainly having fun. For little money, they rent out their vehicles on tourists. But it’s not allowed anymore to drive them on the beach, they warn me. I didn’t suppose to rent anyway, although it comes handy to go for and back with those conveniently. Many tourists from South Africa, just bring their own quad or strand buggy, going for shopping with, or to a near beaches outside town,

In front of the ATM is a queue, waiting patiently to get cashed out their money. Not fancy to wait in the heat, I asked the street seller for changing some cash US Dollars in Meticai, the local currency. Really old fashion, I know, but indeed I found somebody who was happy to get dollars in cash.

Now I was able to buy myself a nice coffee. No better place for that than the ‚Love Café‘ at the end of the street. Friendly staff, strong coffee and street view to entertain myself. As I noticed on the street already, the people are open and friendly, and not too shy to get photographed. In the opposite, some staff from the café was asking me to take pictures of them. 

Back on my camp, next to the beach, I was leaning back with a cold local beer, overlooking the beautiful bay of Punta Do Ouro and feeling I’m arrived here.

Loyangalani am Turkanasee

Heiss, trocken und staubig, das ist Loyangalani am Turkanasee. Ein Bad im See spendet zwar etwas Erfrischung, doch das Wüstenklima erfasst einem wieder sobald man am Ufer steht. Immerhin gibt es Quellen, in deren Nähe der Ort gegründet wurde. Auch unser Camp liegt an einer dieser kleinen Quellen. Das Wasser reicht aus um einige Schatten spendende Palmen hervorzubringen. Es lockt aber auch immer mehr Leute heran, die der kargen Landschaft nichts mehr abtrotzen können und in unsäglicher Armut leben. So wächst Loyangalani und droht die wenigen Ressourcen mit zu vielen Menschen teilen zu müssen.

Trotz Mittagshitze schlendern Michael und ich durch die staubigen Strassen. Hie und da kommen wir in ein Gespräch, machen Fotos und versuchen mehr über das Leben hier zu erfahren. Eine italienische Nonne erzählt uns über das ärmliche Leben hier, über die vielen Kinder, die trotz örtlicher Schule kaum Zukunftsperspektiven haben. So vertrauen sie alle, dass eine göttliche Fügung die ersehnte Wendung in diese Wüstengegend bringt. Bis diese aber kommt sinnieren Michael und ich über die sinnvolle Nutzung der Quellen. Unsere europäische Denkweise stört sich an Verschwendung des Wassers, das oft ineffizient genutzt wird und irgendwo über die Strasse läuft, um dort im sandigen Graben zu versickern.

Touristen gibt es in dieser abgelegenen Region weniger. Einige verirren sich trotzdem dahin. Nicht zuletzt wegen Wolfgang, der hier vor etwa 40 Jahren als erster ein Resort aufgebaut hat. Aus dem Geschäft hat er sich zurückgezogen, hiess es. Eine Legende ist er geblieben. Michael, mein Reisebegleiter, und ich fanden Wolfgang bei einem Bier in einer Bar. Mit einer Kippe in der Hand starrt er in den Fernseher über der Bar. Das Fussballspiel interessiert ihn offensichtlich mehr als wir Neuankömmlinge. Mein redseliger Reisegefährte löchert ihn mit Fragen und erzählt ihm von seinem Leben und Plänen als Missionar in Kenia. Wolfgang zeichnet ein müdes Lächeln auf sein eingefallenes, tief gefurchtes Gesicht. Ihn interessiert es nicht, denke ich für mich. Er sieht aus wie ein Mensch der mit dem Leben abgeschlossen hat. Die Geschichten anderer berühren ihn nicht mehr, und die eigene Geschichte ist abgelebt. Sein hagerer Körper fragt nur noch nach etwas Maisbrei mit Fleischstückchen, einem Bier und Zigaretten. Der müde Geist gibt sich mit dem Fernsehprogramm in der Bar zufrieden, und vielleicht flackern einige erinnerungswürdige Momente vor seinem inneren Auge auf.

OST-EUROPA-MOTORRADTOUR #34: Letzter Spaziergang durch Odessa

Ohne festes Ziel. Zum Hafen, wo die ganzen Kreuzfahrtschiffe einlaufen und von wo sich Touristengruppen in der Stadt verteilen. Der Strassen entlang, wo sich Halbstarke mit ihren Motorräder wichtig machen. Zu einem der Parks, wo sich Schachspieler duellieren und sich einer als Meister entpuppt. Durch Kaufhäuser, die nicht durch ihr Warenangebot beeindrucken, sondern durch ihre Architektur. An interessanten Statuen und schönen Frauen vorbei, die Geschichten aus der Vergangenheit und der Gegenwart erzählen. Ich kann nicht etwas heraus picken, was Odessa besonders macht. Aber wenn es was ist, dann ist es das Flair, das am Schwarzen Meer einzigartig ist.

Sister Therese

A friend wrote me a message, telling me about a German lady, who lives in Africa since decades as a nun and founded several dispensaries. If i’m passing by that area i should visit her, he suggested. And indeed, it seemed i’m pretty close there anyway.

On my way i got stopped by the traffic police. Once more. While the officer check my papers he wanted to know where i’m heading to. I told him the story of the old lady, doing so many good things for local people. I admire to meet her and maybe making some photos of the place she founded, i explained. As the officer has seen my camera he wanted me to do a portrait shot of himself. I did. With a smile on both of us he let me go.

Just ask for ‚Sister Therese‘ when you reach the town, my friend advised me. And indeed, even the people on the street didn’t recognized the name of the dispensary, they reacted promptly on the name of the nun. But Sister Therese doesn’t live here anymore. The new chairman of the small hospital organized a nice chap who’s guiding me to the new founded dispensary of Sister Therese. It was about an hour drive or so. Maurice asked me to stop in a village to introduce me with the chief, who owns a shop. It’s all interesting and so much to learn about, but also time consuming. Finally we reached the dispensary and i met Sister Therese in person. After a brief tour trough the building and nearby garden, she told me her story by a soup and tea. Since she was a young girl she wanted go somewhere far. As a young nun she went to Southern Africa, studied to become a nurse and stayed many years in Zimbabwe. Many stories about trouble and terrible times, in Southern and later in Eastern Africa, but also about never ending hope and times of happiness. Her eyes are always smiling even when she’s telling dark stories. A truly strong woman, which i’d like to spend more time with, but it got late and time to leave for me. Despite the short time with her, it let a deep impression on my way out of the bush.