OST-EUROPA-MOTORRADTOUR #46: Durch Mazedonien nach Griechenland

Eine zügige Fahrt bis nach Griechenland war geplant, als ich die Honda vor dem Hostel in Skopje startete. An den Doppeldecker-Busse der Stadt vorbei ging’s auf die Schnellstrasse Richtung Süden. Doch nicht eintönige Landschaften begleiteten mich, sondern herrliche Kurvenstrecke durch die Bergwelt. Ein herbstlich goldiger Wald bedeckt die Landschaft, unterbrochen von einem Fluss, der sich ebenfalls gen Süden schlängelt. Immer wieder wurde ich zum Anhalten angeregt, oder zumindest den Gasgriff zu lockern, um die Szenerie zu bewundern.

Die Grenzkontrolle zu Griechenland hatte ich schnell hinter mir, und befand mich dann bereits im 17. Land auf meiner Ost-/Südosteuropa-Tour. In Thessaloniki, sah ich wieder viele grössere Motorräder sah, darunter auch einige Honda Varaderos. Darum liess ich hier gleich noch meine Honda checken, die komische Geräusche machte. Der Mechaniker konnte aber nichts ungewöhnliches finden, was mich beruhigte. Also erst mal einen Kaffee geniessen, und der Honda eine Rast gönnen.

OST-EUROPA-MOTORRADTOUR #38: Durch das goldene Moldawien

Die Vermutung vom Vortag bestätigte sich: Die Strassen sind viel besser als in der Ukraine. So glitt die Honda ruhig und zügig durch das hügelige Land. Einzelne Dörfer zogen vorbei, herbstlicher Wald fing mich ein, um dann von riesigen Feldern abgelöst zu werden. Kaum Verkehr, der diese Atmosphäre störte.

Auch der Grenzübergang nach Rumänien gestaltete sich unproblematisch. Die relativ kurze Wartezeit wurde mit gratis WLAN versüsst, und andere Reisende wollten mehr über meinen Motorradtrip erfahren. Diese Pause brauchte ich auch, denn danach ging’s in hohem Tempo durch flaches Land auf die Hauptstadt Rumäniens zu. Budapest empfing mich mit zähem Verkehr, der sich immer wieder staute. Endlich fand ich das gebuchte Hostel, das seinem Namen gerecht war, Zen Tribe Hostel. Mit einem offenem Lachen begrüsste mich Peter, stellte mich den anderen Gästen vor, die mich alle ebenfalls offen begrüssten, und waren besorgt meine Honda durch das engen Gartentor in den sicheren Vorgarten zu bringen. Ich mochte die Stadt entgegen meiner Erwartung auf Anhieb.

OST-EUROPA-MOTORRADTOUR #16: Kurze Tour in der Niederen Tatra

Nachdem ich in der Hohen Tatra überraschend schöne Ecken entdeckte, wollte ich nun auch noch einen Kurztrip in die Niedere Tatra wagen. Gerade rechtzeitig kam ich zur Tour in die ‚Eishöhle‘. Von der Natur tief ins Gebirge gegrabene Gänge führten in eine kalte Dunkelheit. Hier unten hält sich tatsächlich das Eis das ganze Jahr über und formt skurrile Skulpturen. Gut nachvollziehbar, dass im Mittelalter gefundene Bärenknochen für Überbleibsel von Drachen gehalten wurden. Naja, vielleicht hausten die ja wirklich hier.

Im Nachbartal besuchte ich die grösste Holzkirche Slowakiens, oder gar der Welt, je nach Quelle. Kein einziger Nagel oder sonstiges Metall wurde verbaut. Alle tragende Teile und auch der Altar sind aus Holz gefertigt. Nur eine Minute vor dem Schliessen der Kirche wurde ich noch kurz rein gelassen. Trotz der monumentalen Grösse von innen, wirkt das Holz freundlich, warm und heimelig.

Und dann war noch das kleine Dorf, nicht weit von meinem Camp entfernt. Ein Geheimtipp soll die Ruine einer Kirche sein, dessen Holzturm noch erhalten ist. Stolz und unbändig ragt der Turm über die verwachsenen Ruinen empor. Hinter dem einfachen Bauerndorf türmt sich das Tatra-Gebirge, gibt der ganzen Szenerie einen malerischen Anstrich.

Sister Therese

A friend wrote me a message, telling me about a German lady, who lives in Africa since decades as a nun and founded several dispensaries. If i’m passing by that area i should visit her, he suggested. And indeed, it seemed i’m pretty close there anyway.

On my way i got stopped by the traffic police. Once more. While the officer check my papers he wanted to know where i’m heading to. I told him the story of the old lady, doing so many good things for local people. I admire to meet her and maybe making some photos of the place she founded, i explained. As the officer has seen my camera he wanted me to do a portrait shot of himself. I did. With a smile on both of us he let me go.

Just ask for ‚Sister Therese‘ when you reach the town, my friend advised me. And indeed, even the people on the street didn’t recognized the name of the dispensary, they reacted promptly on the name of the nun. But Sister Therese doesn’t live here anymore. The new chairman of the small hospital organized a nice chap who’s guiding me to the new founded dispensary of Sister Therese. It was about an hour drive or so. Maurice asked me to stop in a village to introduce me with the chief, who owns a shop. It’s all interesting and so much to learn about, but also time consuming. Finally we reached the dispensary and i met Sister Therese in person. After a brief tour trough the building and nearby garden, she told me her story by a soup and tea. Since she was a young girl she wanted go somewhere far. As a young nun she went to Southern Africa, studied to become a nurse and stayed many years in Zimbabwe. Many stories about trouble and terrible times, in Southern and later in Eastern Africa, but also about never ending hope and times of happiness. Her eyes are always smiling even when she’s telling dark stories. A truly strong woman, which i’d like to spend more time with, but it got late and time to leave for me. Despite the short time with her, it let a deep impression on my way out of the bush.

Rough Road To Kenya

I could take the nice tarred road out of Uganda, but the scenery on the northern slope of Mount Elgon was to tempting. The road became more bumpy and dusty with every mile, but bigger also the people smile. From time to time i had to stop for a photo, or just for the stunning view, or simply to give way to a big truck on narrow roads. Time schedule got lost. Instead of a few hours drive i needed all day to reach the Kenyan border post. The last village before frontier i found a fuel station where the diesel pump worked by hand. Can’t remember when i had such a laughter with tank guys filling up my diesel tank.

The Sipi Falls

From Kampala leads a wide, tarred road to the Kenyan border, but on my way i decided to drive a detour to the Sipi Falls. The camp was settled opposite the falls with stunning view to the scenery. Even a sprinkling rainbow appeared with the setting sun. Unfortunately it’s a typically ran down campsite, as many others in Uganda and in Africa in general. The staff tell me from a owner living far away, not interested to invest in facilities, nor seems the employers really keen on keeping it nice and tidy. they only count on customers coming (and paying) for the scenery up here. Probably i would had stayed longer if the campsite would been better maintained. However, that one beautiful night i enjoyed the place.

The Source Of River Nile

I felt the privilege to camp on a grassy site overlooking the River Nile. One site called „The Haven“ became easily a base of tranquility and peace, inviting me to stop by for awhile and do nothing than watch the river flow, the eagles fly and fishermen boats float. It was both, inspiring and meditative. The village nearby couldn’t offer much but laughters and friendly talks when i got to the only little shop around. It was actually just a shack with a weird calendar showing the Ugandian president in truly Rambo style. The ‚roll-eggs‘ they made was delicious, though.

Another camp i found was just above the spot where the Lake Victoria giving birth to the River Nile. A humble monument shows the place where the first European, a certain Mr. John Hanning Speke, spotted the source of the river on 28th July 1862.

Nyero Village and Rock Paintings

A few kilometer off the main road, the dusty road leads trough savannah and small villages. Red rock boulders appear on the horizon, growing bigger to nice shaped mountains. On such boulders, the Twa people draw mystical signs and figures on the rocks. Next to a tiny building, which suppose to be the office, i can even camp over night. This let me time to explore the the small caves with rock arts, climbing on the rocks to watch the landscape from above and visiting the villages around. There’s hardly any artificial light at night. The colors of sunset and sunrise are amazingly strong and the full moon send a silver light over the landscape.

At The Banks Of River Nile

At the other side of the Nile a fishing lodge offers boat trips even into South Sudan, i heard. Fishing lodge sounds posh, but when i arrived it was a run-down lodge with basic facilities. Yet still the charm of better times stays in the air. A small group of locals arrived just after me. They came for a little party under friends, brought a living goat in the car trunk and let them to the butcher to slaughter it in the backyard. There were more animals waiting to get eaten up, but having a peacefully live till then. A pig with a bunch of small ones, chicken, more goats. Eagles circling over the river when i walked along the banks and gave the scenery a peaceful touch of freedom.

Murchison Falls National Park

The tremendous costs to visit the Murchison Falls National Park on my own was doubting me to visit the park. But then i got the offer to take a local car with driver to enter the park cheaper. At least to have a glimpse on the spot where Ernest Hemingway crashed with his plane, survived and got picked up by a tourist boat. To be close where Audrey Hepburn was staying and acting for the „African Queen“. Seeing the ruins of one of the residences of Idi Amin, the cruel dictator of prior days. But yes, also the wildlife, although i kept my expectations low. And there is still the waterfalls, after which the park is named.

Driving trough a huge, dense forest with big families of baboons and monkeys, we heading towards the Victoria Nile. Many colorful kingfisher birds flying off when we passed by. A ferry brings us to the other side with different landscape. A savannah with high dry grass. Buffalos glancing at us, antelopes grazing, hippos chilling in the Nile while socks and other birds stalking in the water. Many animals just given birth and keep their babies closely. On the way back we stopped by the great falls. Tons of water squeezed in a narrow valley, fall over several cliffs with big spray and get quite again on the way to Lake Albert. At end of the day, i have to admit it was worth the visit.